Eight-thousander
The eight-thousanders are the 14 independent[1] mountains on Earth that are more than 8,000 metres (26,247 ft) high above sea level. All eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia. They are the mountains whose summits are in the death zone.
The first recorded attempt on an eight-thousander was when Albert F. Mummery and J. Norman Collie tried to climb Pakistan's Nanga Parbat in 1895. The attempt failed when Mummery and two Gurkhas, Ragobir and Goman Singh, were killed by an avalanche.[2]
The first recorded successful ascent of an eight-thousander was by the French Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, who reached the summit of Annapurna on June 3, 1950.[3]
The first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders was the Italian Reinhold Messner, who completed this task on October 16, 1986. A year later, in 1987, the Polish Jerzy Kukuczka became the second climber to accomplish this feat. Messner had summitted each of the 14 peaks without the aid of supplemental oxygen. This feat was not repeated until nine years later by the Swiss Erhard Loretan in 1995. Phurba Tashi of Nepal has completed the most climbs of the eight-thousanders, with 30 ascents between 1998 and 2011.[4] Juanito Oiarzabal has completed the second most, with a total of 25 times between 1985 and 2011.[5] The alpinist with the highest number of accomplished winter ascents is the Italian Simone Moro, with four peaks.[6]
The first woman who summited all 14 eight-thousanders with no disputed climbing was the Spanish Edurne Pasaban, in 2010.[7] In August 2011, Austrian climber Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the first woman to climb the 14 eight-thousanders without the use of supplementary oxygen.[8][9]
The countries with the highest number of climbers that have climbed all 14 eight-thousanders are Italy and South Korea, with five climbers each, followed by Spain, with four climbers. Kazakhstan, Poland have three climbers each that completed the "Crown of the Himalaya".
List of Eight-thousanders
Peak | Height[10] | Location[10] | First ascent[10] | First summiter(s)[10] | First ascent in winter | First summiter(s) in winter | Ascents[11] | Deaths[11] | Death rate[11] | Death rate before 1990[12] (graph) | Death rate 1990–2003[12] (graph, change) |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Everest | 8848 m 29,029 ft |
Nepal China |
29 May 1953 | Edmund Hillary Tenzing Norgay |
17 Feb 1980 |
Krzysztof Wielicki Leszek Cichy |
5656 | 223 | 3.9% | 37% | 4.4% |
K2 | 8611 m 28,251 ft |
Pakistan China[13] [14] [15] [16] [17] [18] |
31 Jul 1954 | Achille Compagnoni Lino Lacedelli |
306 | 81 | 26.5% | 41% | 19.7% | ||
Kangchenjunga | 8586 m 28,169 ft |
Nepal India[19] |
25 May 1955 | George Band Joe Brown |
11 Jan 1986 | Krzysztof Wielicki Jerzy Kukuczka |
283 | 40 | 14.1% | 21% | 22.0% |
Lhotse | 8516 m 27,940 ft |
Nepal China |
18 May 1956 | Fritz Luchsinger Ernst Reiss |
31 Dec 1988 | Krzysztof Wielicki | 461 | 13 | 2.8% | 14% | 2.0% |
Makalu | 8485 m 27,838 ft |
Nepal China |
15 May 1955 | Jean Couzy Lionel Terray |
9 Feb 2009 | Simone Moro Denis Urubko |
361 | 31 | 8.6% | 16% | 8.5% |
Cho Oyu | 8201 m 26,906 ft |
Nepal China |
19 Oct 1954 | Joseph Joechler Pasang Dawa Lama Herbert Tichy |
12 Feb 1985 | Maciej Berbeka Maciej Pawlikowski |
3138 | 44 | 1.4% | ||
Dhaulagiri I | 8167 m 26,795 ft |
Nepal | 13 May 1960 | Kurt Diemberger Peter Diener Nawang Dorje Nima Dorje Ernst Forrer Albin Schelbert |
21 Jan 1985 | Andrzej Czok Jerzy Kukuczka |
448 | 69 | 15.4% | 31% | 11.0% |
Manaslu | 8163 m 26,781 ft |
Nepal | 9 May 1956 | Toshio Imanishi Gyalzen Norbu |
12 Jan 1984 | Maciej Berbeka Ryszard Gajewski |
661 | 65 | 9.8% | 35% | 13.4% |
Nanga Parbat | 8126 m 26,660 ft |
Pakistan | 3 Jul 1953 | Hermann Buhl | 26 Feb 2016 | Simone Moro Muhammad Ali Sadpara Alex Txikon |
335 | 68 | 20.3% | 77% | 5.5% |
Annapurna I | 8091 m 26,545 ft |
Nepal | 3 Jun 1950 | Maurice Herzog Louis Lachenal |
3 Feb 1987 | Jerzy Kukuczka Artur Hajzer |
191 | 61 | 32.0% | 66% | 19.7% |
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) |
8080 m 26,444 ft |
Pakistan China |
5 Jul 1958 | Andrew Kauffman Pete Schoening |
9 Mar 2012 | Adam Bielecki Janusz Gołąb |
334 | 29 | 8.7% | 16% | 8.8% |
Broad Peak | 8051 m 26,414 ft |
Pakistan China |
9 Jun 1957 | Fritz Wintersteller Marcus Schmuck Kurt Diemberger Hermann Buhl |
5 Mar 2013 | Maciej Berbeka Adam Bielecki Tomasz Kowalski Artur Małek |
404 | 21 | 5.2% | 5% | 8.6% |
Gasherbrum II | 8035 m 26,362 ft |
Pakistan China |
7 Jul 1956 | Fritz Moravec Josef Larch Hans Willenpart |
2 Feb 2011 | Simone Moro Denis Urubko Cory Richards |
930 | 21 | 2.3% | 8% | 0.4% |
Shishapangma | 8027 m 26,335 ft |
China | 2 May 1964 | Hsu Ching Chang Chun-yen Wang Fuzhou Chen San Cheng Tien-liang Wu Tsung-yue Sodnam Doji Migmar Trashi Doji Yonten |
14 Jan 2005 | Piotr Morawski Simone Moro |
302 | 25 | 8.3% | 2% | 16.8% |
Climbers with verified ascents of all 14 eight-thousanders
Field O2 lists people who have climbed all 14 without bottled oxygen.
Order accomplished |
All without O2 (order) |
Name | Period | Born | Age | Nationality |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 1 | Reinhold Messner | 1970–1986 | 1944 | 42 | Italian |
2 | Jerzy Kukuczka | 1979–1987 (deceased) | 1948 | 39 | Polish | |
3 | 2 | Erhard Loretan | 1982–1995 (deceased) | 1959 | 36 | Swiss |
4 | [21] | Carlos Carsolio | 1985–1996 | 1962 | 33 | Mexican |
5 | Krzysztof Wielicki | 1980–1996 | 1950 | 46 | Polish | |
6 | 3 | Juanito Oiarzabal | 1985–1999 | 1956 | 43 | Spanish |
7 | Sergio Martini | 1983–2000 | 1949 | 51 | Italian | |
8 | Young-Seok Park | 1993–2001 (deceased)[22] | 1963 | 38 | Korean | |
9 | Hong-Gil Um | 1988–2001 | 1960[23] | 40 | Korean | |
10 | 4 | Alberto Iñurrategi | 1991-2002[24] | 1968 | 33 | Spanish |
11 | Wang-Yong Han | 1994–2003 | 1966 | 37 | Korean | |
12 | 5[25] | Ed Viesturs | 1989–2005 | 1959 | 46 | American |
13 | 6[26][27][28] | Silvio Mondinelli | 1993–2007 | 1958 | 49 | Italian |
14 | 7[29] | Ivan Vallejo | 1997–2008 | 1959 | 49 | Ecuador |
15 | 8[30] | Denis Urubko | 2000–2009 | 1973 | 35 | Kazakhstan |
16 | Ralf Dujmovits | 1990–2009 | 1961[31] | 47 | German | |
17 | 9 | Veikka Gustafsson | 1993–2009 | 1968 | 41 | Finnish |
18[32] | Andrew Lock | 1993–2009 | 1961[33] | 48 | Australian | |
19 | 10 | João Garcia | 1993–2010 | 1967 | 43 | Portuguese |
20[34] | Piotr Pustelnik | 1990–2010 | 1951 | 58 | Polish | |
21[35] | Edurne Pasaban | 2001–2010 | 1973 | 36 | Spanish | |
22[36] | Abele Blanc | 1992–2011[37][38] | 1954 | 56 | Italian | |
23 | Mingma Sherpa | 2000–2011[37] | 1978 | 33 | Nepal | |
24 | 11 | Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner | 1998–2011[37] | 1970 | 40 | Austria |
25 | Vassily Pivtsov | 2001–2011[37] | 1975 | 36 | Kazakhstan | |
26 | 12 | Maxut Zhumayev | 2001–2011[37] | 1977 | 34 | Kazakhstan |
27 | Jae-Soo Kim | 2000–2011[37] | 1961 | 50 | Korean | |
28[39] | 13 | Mario Panzeri | 1988–2012 | 1964 | 48 | Italian |
29[40] | Hirotaka Takeuchi | 1995–2012[40] | 1971 | 41 | Japanese | |
30 | Chhang Dawa Sherpa | 2001–2013[37] | 1982 | 30 | Nepal | |
31 | 14 | Kim Chang-Ho | 2005–2013[37] | 1970 | 43 | Korean |
32 | Jorge Egocheaga | 2002–2014[41] | 1968 | 45 | Spanish | |
33 | 15 | Radek Jaroš | 1998–2014[37] | 1964 | 50 | Czech |
Disputed
Claims in which not enough evidence was provided to verify the ascents of all 14 peaks. The disputed ascent in each claim is shown in parentheses.
Name | Period | Born | Age | Nationality |
---|---|---|---|---|
Fausto De Stefani (Lhotse 1997)[42] | 1983–1998 | 1952 | 46 | Italy |
Alan Hinkes (Cho Oyu 1990)[43][44] | 1987–2005 | 1954 | 53 | British |
Vladislav Terzyul (Shishapangma 2000,Broad Peak 1995[45][46])[47][48] | 1993–2002 (deceased) | 1953 | 49 | Ukrainian |
Eun-Sun Oh (Kangchenjunga 2009)[49][50][51][52] | 1997–2010 | 1966 | 44 | Korean |
Carlos Pauner (Shishapangma 2012)[53] | 2001–2013 | 1963 | 50 | Spanish |
Gallery
-
No. 1 – Everest
-
No. 2 – K2
-
No. 3 – Kangchenjunga
-
No. 4 – Lhotse
-
No. 5 – Makalu
-
No. 6 – Cho Oyu
-
No. 7 – Dhaulagiri
-
No. 8 – Manaslu
-
No. 9 – Nanga Parbat
-
No. 10 – Annapurna
-
No. 11 – Gasherbrum I
-
No. 12 – Broad Peak
-
No. 13 – Gasherbrum II
-
No. 14 – Shishapangma
See also
- Explorers Grand Slam, also known as The Adventurers Grand Slam
- List of deaths on eight-thousanders
- List of highest mountains
- List of Mount Everest summiters by number of times to the summit
- List of ski descents of Eight-Thousanders
- Seven Second Summits
- Seven Summits
- Three Poles Challenge
- Volcanic Seven Summits
References
- ↑ In making any "highest mountains" list, one needs to use a criterion to exclude subpeaks and only list independent mountains. There is no universally agreed-upon such criterion. However the (generally accepted) list of 14 eight-thousanders is obtained if one uses a topographic prominence cutoff of between 200 and 500 metres (610 and 1524 feet). Some eight-thousand metre subpeaks have been climbed as goals in themselves, for example Lhotse Middle, but this is quite rare.
- ↑ "Fast Facts About Nanga Parbat". climbing.about.com. Retrieved 2015-05-29.
- ↑ Herzog, Maurice (1951). Annapurna: First Conquest of an 8000-meter Peak. Translated from the French by Nea Morin and Janet Adam Smith. New York: E.P Dutton & Co. p. 257.
- ↑ "Preliminary stats: Himalaya and Everest 2011 spring review". ExplorersWeb. June 8, 2013. Retrieved 2014-01-04. (subscription required (help)).
- ↑ "Lhotse Summits". 8000ers.com. Retrieved 2014-01-04.
- ↑ Planetmountain.com, Nanga Parbat: summit and first winter ascent by Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon, 26 February 2016
- ↑ "Oh Eun-Sun report, final: Edurne Pasaban takes the throne". ExplorersWeb. December 10, 2010. Retrieved 2014-01-04. (subscription required (help)).
- ↑ "Austrian woman claims Himalayas climbing record". BBC News. 23 August 2011. Retrieved 2011-08-24.
- ↑ "Austrian is first woman to scale 14 peaks without oxygen". AsiaOne. August 30, 2011. Retrieved 2014-01-04.
- 1 2 3 4
"General Info". 8000ers.com. Retrieved 2014-02-21. - 1 2 3 "Stairway to heaven". The Economist. 29 May 2013. Retrieved 2015-09-07As of March 2012
- 1 2 Chinese National Geography, August 2006, page 77.
- ↑ http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-28500721 K2 lies in Pakistan, near the northern border with China.
- ↑ Pakistan-China border agreement
- ↑ K2, China/Pakistan
- ↑ K2: Some background and History
- ↑ Encyclopædia Britannica
- ↑ K2
- ↑ http://www.theguardian.com/world/2000/jul/13/lukeharding
- ↑ "Climbers - First 14". 8000ers.com. 2012-05-26. Retrieved 2014-02-21.
- ↑ Carlos Carsolio required emergency oxygen on his descent from Makalu in 1988.
- ↑ Coley, Mariah. "Koreans Missing on Annapurna Presumed Dead". Alpinist.com. Retrieved 9 November 2011.
- ↑ EverestNews2004.com, News (age calculated: in 2004 Hong-Gil Um was 44). "Mr. Um Hong Gil has bagged his 15th 8000 meter peak". Retrieved 2008-11-30.
- ↑ Kukuxumusu, Spanish News. "Alberto Iñurrategi achieves his fourteenth "eight thousand meters"". Retrieved 2008-11-30.
- ↑ "Best of ExplorersWeb 2005 Awards: Ed Viesturs and Christian Kuntner". Mounteverest.net. Retrieved 2008-11-30.
...the American climber became one of only five men in the world to accomplish the quest entirely without supplementary oxygen.
- ↑ Mounteverest.net. "The wolf is back: Gnaro bags Baruntse". Retrieved 2008-11-30.
Last year, Silvio 'Gnaro' Mondinelli broke the haunted 13 when he summited the last peak on his list of 14, 8000ers - becoming only the 6th mountaineer in the world to have bagged them all without supplementary oxygen.
- ↑ "The day after: Silvio Mondinelli, Broad Peak and all 14 8000m summits". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2008-11-30.
13/07 interview with Silvio Mondinelli after the summit of his 14th 8000m peak without supplementary oxygen.
- ↑ "The 14th knight: Ecuadorian Ivan Vallejo is ready to continue". Mounteverest.net. Retrieved 2008-11-30.
Implied in text: ...Following Italian Silvio "Gnaro" Mondinelli last year and American Ed Viesturs in 2005, Ivan also became only the seventh mountaineer in the world to have done them all without supplementary oxygen.
- ↑ "The 14th knight: Ecuadorian Ivan Vallejo is ready to continue". Mounteverest.net. Retrieved 2008-11-30.
...Ivan also became only the seventh mountaineer in the world to have done them all without supplementary oxygen.
- ↑ "Denis Urubko, Cho Oyu and all 14 8000m peaks". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2009-05-18.
- ↑ "Ralf Dujmovits". Ralf-dujmovits.de. Retrieved 2010-04-14.
- ↑ "Summit 8000 - Andrew Lock's quest to climb all fourteen of the highest mountains in the world". Andrew-lock.com. Retrieved 2010-04-14.
- ↑ "Australia's Most Accomplished Mountaineer". Andrew Lock. 2009-10-02. Retrieved 2010-04-14.
- ↑ "Piotr Pustelnik summits Annapurna - bags the 14x8000ers!". Explorersweb.com. Retrieved 2014-02-21.
- ↑ "Shisha Pangma: Edurne Pasaban summits - completes the 14x800ers". Explorersweb.com. Retrieved 2014-02-21.
- ↑ "Abele Blanc summits Annapurna and all 8000ers". Planetmountain.com. Retrieved 2014-02-21.
- 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 "Climbers - First 14, updated table on 8000ers.com". 8000ers.com. Retrieved 2014-02-21.
- ↑ "Everest - Mount Everest by climbers, news". Mounteverest.net. 2005-05-18. Retrieved 2014-01-21.
- ↑ "Mario Panzeri: sono in cima! E finalmente sono 14 ottomila". Montagna.tv. Retrieved 2014-02-21.
- 1 2 "日本人初の快挙、8000m峰14座登頂 竹内洋岳". Nikkei.com. Retrieved 2014-02-21.
- ↑ "Climbers - First 14". 8000ers.com. 2014-08-13. Retrieved 2014-08-13.
- ↑ "Fausto de Stefani back for Lhotse – changes ahead on the 14x8,000ers summiteers’ list?". MountEverest.net. Retrieved 2008-11-30.
- ↑ AdventureStats.net, Official records. "Climbers that have summited 10 to 13 of the 14 Main-8000ers". Retrieved 2008-11-30.
- ↑ MountEverest.net, News, under heading No Proof: Alan himself said later that he continued alone for one hour into the fog to find the true summit. He said that he "has no proof to have not been to the summit" and so he counts it a done deal. The statistician's didn't buy it, and Alan was deleted on all of the Cho Oyu lists.. "Alan Hinkes Kangchenjunga - 13 or 14?". Retrieved 2008-11-30.
- ↑ "Vladislav Terz". www.russianclimb.com. Retrieved 2016-04-28.
- ↑ "AdventureStats - by Explorersweb". www.adventurestats.com. Retrieved 2016-04-28.
- ↑ Russianclimb.com, Mountaineering World of Russia & CIS. "Vladislav Terzyul, List of ascents". Retrieved 2009-10-06.
- ↑ "Sad results on Makalu and Unanswered Questions: 1 missing climber and 1 passed away on Makalu". Everestnews2004.com. Retrieved 2014-02-21.
- ↑ "AFP: Winds delay S. Korean climber's record attempt". Google.com. 2010-04-24. Retrieved 2014-01-21.
- ↑ "Everest K2 News ExplorersWeb - More dark clouds mounting on Anna summit push; Miss Oh's Kanchen summit "disputed" after renewed accusations". Explorersweb.com. 2010-04-26. Retrieved 2014-01-21.
- ↑ "New doubts over Korean Oh Eun-Sun's climbing record". BBC News. 2010-08-27.
- ↑ "Seasonal Stories for the Nepalese Himalaya 2010" (PDF). Himalayandatabase.com. Retrieved 2014-02-21.
- ↑ "Desnivel; Carlos Pauner consigue la cima del Everest". Desnivel.com. Retrieved 2014-01-21.
External links
- Site dedicated to the 8000m peaks and mountaineers
- Pictures of 8'000 meter peaks
- Map in GeoFinder.ch showing the locations of the main summits
- The Eight-Thousanders
- Map in MapsCamp showing the locations of the main summits
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