USA Climbing

USA Climbing is the official governing body of climbing competitions in the United States, overseeing competition climbing in three disciplines: bouldering, sport climbing, and speed. It is recognized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing.

Competition Structure

Climbing competitions are divided into three seasons -- the Bouldering Season which consists solely of bouldering competitions and the Sport & Speed Climbing Season which consists of sport climbing and speed competitions. Collegiate competitors may also compete in the Collegiate Season.

Open

Anyone 16 and older may choose to compete at open Nationals. There are no Regional or Divisional competitions for open competitors. The winners in each gender/event at open Nationals are considered the National Champions of the United States. *The only caveat is that a foreign national cannot be the National Champion of the USA. If a foreign national wins any gender/event the next highest placed citizen of the USA in that gender/event is the National Champion.

Youth

Youth climbers are subdivided into the Youth D (born in 2005 or later), Youth C (born in 2003-2004), Youth B (born in 2001-2002), Youth A (born in 1999-2000), and Junior (born in 1997-1998) age groups. Youth compete in the Bouldering Season in the fall/winter and the Sport & Speed Season in the spring/summer.

The US is subdivided into 8 Divisions and 16 Regions.[1] Anyone may compete in local competitions. USA Climbing members, who have attended at least two local competitions, may compete at Regionals.[2] The top 10 competitors in each gender/category at Regionals receive an invitation to Divisionals. The top 6 competitors in each gender/category at Divisionals receive an invitation to Nationals.[3] The top four climbers in each gender/category/event at Nationals are considered U.S. Youth Team, and Youth B and up are given the opportunity to compete at the Youth PanAmerican and World Championships.

Collegiate

College students may compete in the Collegiate Season.

Speed Climbing

Open, Junior and Youth A and B compete on either 10 or 15 meter walls designed by the International Federation of Sport Climbing.[4] Until 2014, speed climbing at Nationals was held on 10 meter walls. For the first time at the 2015 Youth Nationals Championships, speed climbing was held on a 15 meter wall like almost all International Federation of Sport Climbing competitions.

Youth C and D typically compete on a 10 meter "jug haul", which means no specific holds are used and there is no set placement of the holds. The number, size and placement of holds varies from competition to competition.

Records

15 meter 10 meter
Men's 6.54 John Brosler[5] 3.95 John Brosler[6]
Open 6.54 John Brosler[7] 3.95 John Brosler[8]
Junior 6.69 John Brosler[9] 4.78 Thomas Pitzel[10]
Youth A 6.74 John Brosler[11] 4.34 John Brosler[12]
Youth B 8.02 Brandon Lieuw[13] 5.03 Michael Retoff[14]
15 meter 10 meter
Women's 9.56 Erica Meister[15] 5.74 Sidney Trinidad
Open 10.08 Erica Meister[16] 5.74 Sidney Trinidad
Junior 9.82 Kayla Lieuw[17] 6.07 Daniel Rogan[18]
Youth A 9.56 Erica Meister[19] 5.88 Grace McKeehan[20]
Youth B 10.07 Sidney Trinidad[21] 6.33 Sidney Trinidad[22]

The records for Youth C and D are not meaningful since the routes are different at every competition.

Bouldering Open National Championships[23]

Male

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2005[24] Daniel Woods
2006[25] Daniel Woods
2007[26] Daniel Woods Paul Robinson *Sean McColl
2008[27] Paul Robinson Chris Sharma *Sean McColl
2009[28] Daniel Woods Paul Robinson *Sean McColl
2010[29] Daniel Woods Matt Bosley Robert D'Anastasio
2011 *Sean McColl Alex Johnson Kyle Owen
2012 Daniel Woods Ethan Pringle Michael Bautista
2013 Daniel Woods Ian Dory Vasya Vorotnikov
2014 Daniel Woods Vasya Vorotnikov Andy Lamb
2015 *Mohammad Jafari Mahmodabadi Daniel Woods Michael O'Rourke

Female

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2005[30] Portia Menlove
2006[31] Alex Puccio
2007[32] Alex Puccio Elizabeth Asher Angie Payne
2008[33] Alex Puccio Alex Johnson Paige Claassen
2009[34] Alex Johnson Chauncenia Cox Kate McGinnis
2010[35] Alex Puccio Alex Johnson Francesca Metcalf
2011 Alex Puccio Francesca Metcalf Sasha Digiulian
2012 Alex Puccio Angie Payne *Shauna Coxsey
2013 Alex Puccio Andrea Szekely Isabelle Faus
2014 *Juliane Wurm Alex Puccio Megan Mascarenas
2015 Alex Puccio Alex Johnson Angie Payne

Sport & Speed Open National Championships[36]

Lead

Male

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2009[37][38] Carlo Traversi Dave Graham Ethan Pringle
2010[39] *Magnus Midtbo Daniel Woods Matt Hong
2011[40] *Magnus Midtbo Carlo Traversi Matt Hong
2012 Vasya Vorotnikov Dylan Barks Daniel Woods
2013 Daniel Woods Carlo Traversi Noah Ridge
2014 Brad Weaver Noah Ridge Robert D'Anastasio
2015[41] Kai Lightner Jesse Grupper Matty Hong

Female

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2009[42][43] Emily Harrington Paige Claassen Sasha DiGuilian
2010[44] Sasha DiGiulian Lauren Lee Paige Claassen
2011[45] Sasha Digiulian Paige Claassen Dana Riddle
2012 Sasha DiGiulian Delaney Miller Michaela Kiersch
2013 *Charlotte Durif Delaney Miller Chelsea Rude
2014 Delaney Miller Sasha DiGiulian Claire Buhrfeind
2015[46] Delaney Miller Margo Hayes Claire Buhrfeind

Speed

Male

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2013
2014[47] John Brosler Stanislav Kokorin Ryan Strickland
2015 Libor Hroza John Brosler Michael Retoff

Female

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2013
2014
2015 Sidney Trinidad

Bouldering Youth National Championships

Male Junior

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2011 Alex Johnson Griffin Whiteside Mishael Beyer
2012 Michael O'Rourke Alex Fritz Joseph Gifford
2013 Josh Levin Greig Seitz Noah Ridge
2014 Sean Bailey Dominic LaBarge Nicholas Milburn
2015 Nathaniel Coleman Joseph Diaz Dalton Bunker

Female Junior

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2011 Francesca Metcalf Isabelle Faus Jesse Youngwerth
2012 Cicada Jenerik Francesca Metcalf Audrey Hsu
2013 Cicada Janerik Michaela Kiersch Carina Claassen
2014 Kyra Condie Kerry Scott Zoe Leibovitch
2015 Megan Mascarenas Zoe Steinberg Kyra Condie

Male Youth A

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2011 Andy Lamb Joeseph Gifford Josh Levin
2012 Nicholas Milburn Dylan Barks Nicholas Picarella
2013 Connor Everton Sean Bailey Ethan Rogers
2014 Nathaniel Coleman Brendan Mitchell Solomon Barth
2015 Kai Lightner Shawn Raboutou Benjamin Hanna

Female Youth A

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2011 Dana Riddle Michaela Kiersch Audrey Hsu
2012 Kyra Condie Jacquelyn Wu Dana Riddle
2013 Kyra Condie Megan Mascarenas Hannah Tolson
2014 Megan Mascarenas Claire Bresnan Margo Hayes
2015 Melina Costanza Claire Buhrfeind Grace Mckeehan

Male Youth B

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2011 Nicholas Picarella Daniel Berman Liam Vence
2012 Nathaniel Coleman Brendan Mitchell Shawn Rabboutou
2013 Sam Kim Culin Li Shawn Rabboutou
2014 Kai Lightner Lucas Kepl Brett Walker
2015 Matthew Grossman Joe Goodacre Zach Galla

Female Youth B

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2011 Zoe Steinberg Megan Mascarenas Kerry Scott
2012 Megan Mascarenas Clara Dixon Katherine Lamb
2013 Claire Buhrfeind Margo Hayes Sidney Trinidad
2014 Sidney Trinidad Cierra Graham Audrey Miller
2015 Lauren Bair Ashima Shiraishi Brooke Raboutou

Male Youth C

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2011 Sam Kim Kai Lightner Charles Barron
2012 Kai Lightner Jake Fields Gavin Dixon
2013 Mirko Caballero Matthew Grossman Clay Gordon
2014 Mirko Caballero Dylan Duregger Corbin Miley
2015 Innis Gallagher Noah Wheeler Domingo Jones

Female Youth C

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2011 Margo Hayes Isabelle Goodacre Claire Buhrfiend
2012 Sidney Trinidad Melina Costanza Cierra Graham
2013 Ashima Shiraishi Stella Noble Natalia Grossman
2014 Ashima Shiraishi Brooke Raboutou Isabel Barrientos
2015 Lauren Berry Mia Manson Tesla Mitchell

Male Youth D

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2011 Mirko Caballero Joe Goodacre Lukas Strauss-Wise
2012 Mirko Caballero Joe Goodacre Clay Gordon
2013 Nathaniel Surma Dylan Drugger Colin Duffy
2014 Colin Duffy Jason Wills Ethan Rogers
2015 Lucas Oddi Leo Costanza Samuel Adams

Female Youth D

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2011 Ashima Shiraishi Brooke Raboutou Lauren Bair
2012 Ashima Shiraishi Lauren Bair Natalia Grossman
2013 Mia Manson Phoebe Dolan Charlotte Howell
2014 Jessica Fecanin Campbell Sarinopoulos Phoebe Wong
2015 Campbell Sarinopoulos Sophie Volchenboum Sophia Hoermann

Sport & Speed Youth National Championships

Sport

Male Junior

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2013[48] Dylan Barks Josh Levin Dominic Labarge
2014[49] Sean Bailey Ben Isaac Tresco Dominic Labarge
2015[50] Nathaniel Coleman Sean Bailey Ben Isaac Tresco

Female Junior

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2013[51] Delaney Miller Michaela Kiersch Alexa Nazarian
2014[52] Delaney Miller Kyra Condie Zoe Steinberg
2015[53] Kyra Condie Samantha Scharenberg Victoria Clarke

Male Youth A

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2013[54] Nicholas Bradley Sean Bailey Connor Everton
2014[55] Jesse Grupper Solomon Barth Nicholas Bradley
2015[56] Rudolph Ruana Benjamin Hanna Kai Lightner

Female Youth A

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2013[57] Kyra Condie Chloe Laberge Samantha Scharenberg
2014[58] Margarita Marsanova Grace Mckeehan Margo Hayes
2015[59] Margo Hayes Claire Buhrfeind Melina Costanza

Male Youth B

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2013[60] Kai Lightner Rudolph Ruana Benjamin Hanna
2014[61] Kai Lightner Rudolph Ruana Emmanuel Quintana
2015[62] Clay Gordon Devin Wong Lucas Kepl

Female Youth B

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2013[63] Claire Buhrfeind Margo Hayes Margarita Marsanova
2014[64] Sidney Trinidad Melina Costanza Bimini Horstmann
2015[65] Ashima Shiraishi Brooke Raboutou Lauren Bair

Male Youth C

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2013[66] Ross Fulkerson Devin Hammonds Sam Mcqueen
2014[67] Clay Gordon Ross Fulkerson Joe Goodacre
2015[68] Colin Duffy Elliot Wiecek Zander Waller

Female Youth C

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2013[69] Chloe Massenat Stella Noble Ruby Huie
2014[70] Stella Noble Lauren Bair Emma Palmer
2015[71] Jessica Fecanin Quinn Mason Marielle Horstmann

Male Youth D

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2013[72] Colin Duffy Victor Baudrand Jason Wills
2014[73] Collin Duffy Zander Waller Ethan Rogers
2015[74] Lucas Tillery Lucas Oddi Joshua Gerhardt

Female Youth D

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2013[75] Mia Manson Sami Singleton Rowen Villamil
2014[76] Alex Plotnikoff Jessica Fecanin Campbell Sarinopoulos
2015[77] Genevieve (Matti) Dennis Lydia Dolan Anna Von Dungen

Speed

Male Junior

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2013[78] Thomas Pitzel Ryan Strickland Josh Levin
2014[79] Thomas Pitzel Dominic Labarge Jacob Wilbur
2015[80] John Brosler Brendan Mitchell Kirby Coggins

Female Junior

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2013[81] Delaney Miller Dana Riddle Alexa Nazarian
2014[82] Danielle Rogan Jacquelyn Wu Kyra Condie
2015[83] Kayla Lieuw Kyra Condie Megan Carr

Male Youth A

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2013[84] John Brosler Collier Skinn Brendan Mitchell
2014[85] John Brosler Michael Retoff Jake Criss
2015[86] Max Hammer Michael Retoff Luke Muehring

Female Youth A

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2013[87] Megan Carr Kyra Condie Kayla Lieuw
2014[88] Clair Buhrfeind Grace Mckeehan Kayla Lieuw
2015[89] Erica Meister Claire Buhrfeind Grace Mckeehan

Male Youth B

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2013[90] Michael Retoff Brandon Lieuw Nicholas Becker
2014[91] Max Hammer Matthew Nunes Gentry Cole
2015[92] Noah Bratschi Eric Brem Matthew Nunes

Female Youth B

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2013[93] Claire Buhrfeind Sidney Trinidad Grace Mckeehan
2014[94] Sidney Trinidad Jenna Wang Bimini Horstmann
2015[95] Jenna Tseng Arabella Jariel Jamie Dunlavy

Male Youth C

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2013[96] Joe Goodacre Matthew Nunes Matthew Grossman
2014[97] Corbin Miley Spencer Kapayo Joe Goodacre
2015[98] Chad Test Colin Duffy Luke Davison

Female Youth C

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2013[99] Riley Ogier Lauren Bair Jenna Tseng
2014[100] Lauren Bair Natalia Grossman Olivia Ogier
2015[101] Jessica Fecanin Kiara Pellicane-Hart Phoebe Dolan

Male Youth D

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2013[102] Chad Test Joshua Muehring Ethan Rogers
2014[103] Colin Duffy Zander Waller Ethan Rogers
2015[104] Leo Costanza Lucas Tillery Cedar Holden

Female Youth D

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2013[105] Jessica Fecanin Phoebe Dolan Mia Manson
2014[106] Jessica Fecanin Charlotte Howell Nicole (Coco) Mar
2015[107] Nicole (Coco) Mar Zoe Lang Campbell Sarinopoulos

Collegiate National Championships

Results information for many of the years is sparse. Prior to 2013 the CCS National Championships had a combined sport climbing and bouldering competition. From 2013 onward there is a separate sport climbing and bouldering competition. The speed climbing is not held on the standard speed course and therefore official times are not kept. So far the major qualifications for competing in the collegiate nationals are: you must be a student at a 4 year university, you must compete in one local competition, and you must compete in one regional competition.

Male

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2009[108] Charles Garcia Andrew Perry Andre Torres
2010
2011[109] Daniel Beall Alex Baile Mark Mercer
2012

Sport Climbing

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2013 Kyle Howard (climber) Will Butcher Rami Najjar
2014[110] Will Butcher Owen Graham Allan Andranikian
2015 Tristan Chen Ryan Flore Rami Najjar

Bouldering

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2013
2014 Andy Lamb Josh Levin Michael Brown
2015 Andy Lamb Jeremy Walton Dom Speranza

Speed

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2009
2010
2011 Mark Mercer[111] Kegan Minock[112] Daniel Thueneman[113]
2012
2013 Danny Aleksovsky
2014[114] Joey Anthony Andrew Lee Benjamin Flores
2015 Joey Anthony Jacob Schofield Evan Goldfinger

Female

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2009 Jeline Guiles Sarah Goldberger Laura Patton
2010
2011 Kimberly Schreiber Vicky Sinnot Alice Hafer
2012

Sport Climbing

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2013 Sarah Williams
2014[115] Delaney Miller Sapna Desai Melanie Daulton
2015 Delaney Miller Alexa Nazarian Anne Kavalerchik

Bouldering

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2013[116] Francesca Metcalf Leanna Lockhart Sarah Rennich
2014 Francesca Metcalf Juliet Hammer Sarah Williams
2015 Francesca Metcalf Ana Stirniman Alexis Mascarenas

Speed

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2009
2010
2011 Amanda Sutton[117] Becca Saag[118] Michelle Schrader[119]
2012
2013
2014[120] Zhaina Myrzakhanova Kendra Kwoka Taylor Mitchell
2015 Zhaina Myrzakhanova Taylor Clarkin Jessica Capalbo

Team

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2009 University of Central Florida[121]
2010 University of Central Florida[122]
2011 University of Central Florida[123] Humboldt State University[124]
2012 University of Texas[125] University of Central Florida[126]
2013 University of Texas[127]
2014[128] University of Texas Northeastern University CSU Fort Collins
2015 CSU Fort Collins University of Texas CU Boulder

References

  1. http://usaclimbing.net/Regional%20Realignment%20Sept%202015.pdf
  2. http://usaclimbing.net/rockcomps/resources/2014-1130A615%20USA%20Climbing%20Rule%20Book.pdf Rule 5.13.4
  3. http://usaclimbing.net/Regional%20Realignment%20Sept%202015.pdf
  4. http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/about-ifsc/Speed_Project/140429_SDSpeedLicenseRules4.1-corrected.pdf
  5. http://www.stangenzirkel.com/climbing-worldcup-2015-speed-central-saanich-can/women%27s-and-men%27s-finals
  6. https://thriva.activenetwork.com/FileStore/USAClimbing/2014%20SCS%20Male%20Speed%20Final.pdf
  7. http://www.stangenzirkel.com/climbing-worldcup-2015-speed-central-saanich-can/women%27s-and-men%27s-finals
  8. https://thriva.activenetwork.com/FileStore/USAClimbing/2014%20SCS%20Male%20Speed%20Final.pdf
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  10. http://usaclimbing.net/SCS%20Nat%20Male%20Speed%20Final.pdf
  11. http://www.stangenzirkel.com/world-youth-championship-2013-central-saanich-can/speed-finals
  12. https://thriva.activenetwork.com/FileStore/USAClimbing/MYA%20Speed%20FInal.pdf
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  18. https://thriva.activenetwork.com/FileStore/USAClimbing/FJR%20Speed%20Final.pdf
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  119. http://climbingnarc.com/2011/05/report-from-the-2011-collegiate-climbing-series/
  120. http://www.ccsnationals.org/community/community_details.cfm?id=1038
  121. https://orgsync.com/23294/news_posts/34565
  122. https://orgsync.com/23294/news_posts/34565
  123. https://orgsync.com/23294/news_posts/34565
  124. http://climbingnarc.com/2011/05/report-from-the-2011-collegiate-climbing-series/
  125. http://www.utrecsports.org/sport-clubs/national-champions
  126. https://orgsync.com/23294/news_posts/34565
  127. http://www.utrecsports.org/sport-clubs/national-champions
  128. http://www.ccsnationals.org/community/community_details.cfm?id=1038

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