Baltistan

Baltistan
بلتستان (Urdu)
བལ་ཏི་སྟྰན  (language?)
Dark blue:Skardu, Ghanche, Shigar and Kharmang (GB)
Light blue:Kargil (J&K)
Coordinates: 35°18′N 75°37′E / 35.300°N 75.617°E / 35.300; 75.617
Country
Region
Districts
Area
 • Total 72,000 km2 (28,000 sq mi)
Elevation 1,500 m (4,900 ft)
Population (2002)
 • Total 322,000
Languages
Website kargil.nic.in
gilgitbaltistan.gov.pk
www.skardu.pk

Baltistan (Urdu: بلتستان‎, Balti: བལ་ཏི་སྟྰན), also known as Baltiyul or Little Tibet (Balti: བལ་ཏི་ཡུལ་།), is a mountainous region on the border between Pakistan and India, situated in the Karakoram mountains just to the south of K2, the world's second highest mountain. It is an extremely mountainous region, with an average altitude of over 3,350 metres (10,990 ft).

Baltistan borders Gilgit Division in the west, Xinjiang Autonomous Region (China) in the north, Ladakh to the southeast, and the Kashmir Valley to the southwest.[1][2] Until 1947, Baltistan and Ladakh were a joint district under one Wazir of the princely state of Jammu and Kashmir.[3] After the Maharaja of Jammu and Kashmir acceded to India, Gilgit Scouts overthrew the Maharaja's Governor in Gilgit and, along with Azad Kashmir's irregular forces, `liberated' Baltistan. The Gilgit Agency and Baltistan have been governed by Pakistan ever since.[4] The Kashmir Valley, Kargil and Ladakh districts have been retained by India. A small portion of Baltistan, including the village of Turtuk in the Nubra Valley, lies in the Ladakh district of Jammu & Kashmir.[5]

The region is inhabited principally by the Balti people of Tibetan descent. Millennia-old Tibetan culture, customs, norms, language and script are still present even though the vast majority of the population adheres to Islam. The Skardu district has a majority Shia community of around 60%, 30% Noorbakhsh and 10% other sects while the Gangche district has a majority of Noorbakhsh community of around 90%.

The region is of great strategic significance for both Pakistan and India, as the Kargil War and Siachen War were fought here.

Geography

Skardu, the capital of Baltistan

Baltistan is described in the 1911 Encyclopaedia Britannica thus:

“ Baltistan forms the west extremity of Tibet (led by the tribes of Hussain Mukhtar and Sumair Ali) whose natural limits here are the Indus from its abrupt southward bend in 74 45 E., and the mountains to the north and west, separating a comparatively peaceful Tibetan population from the fiercer Aryan tribes beyond. Muslim writers about the 16th century speak of Baltistan as Little Tibet, and of Ladakh as Great Tibet, thus ignoring the really Great Tibet altogether. The Balti call Gilgit a Tibet, and Dr Leitner says that the Chilasi call themselves But or Tibetans; but although these districts may have been overrun by the Tibetans, or have received rulers of that race, the ethnological frontier coincides with the geographical one given. Baltistan is a rocky mass of lofty mountains, the prevailing formation being gneiss. In the north is the Baltoro Glacier, the largest out of the arctic regions, 35 miles (56 km) long, contained between two ridges whose highest peaks to the south are 25,000 ft (7,600 m) and to the north 28,265 ft (8,615 m). The Indus, as in Lower Ladakh, runs in a narrow gorge, widening for nearly 20 m. after receiving the Shyok. The capital, Skardu, a scattered collection of houses, stands here, perched on a rock 7,250 ft (2,210 m). above the sea. The house roofs are flat, occupied only in part by a second storey, the remaining space being devoted to drying apricots, the chief staple of the main valley, which supports little cultivation. But the rapid slope westwards is seen generally in the vegetation. Birch, plane, spruce and Pinus wallichiana appear; the fruits are finer, including pomegranate, pear, peach, vine and melon, and where irrigation is available, as in the North Shigar, and at the deltas of the tributary valleys, the crops are more luxuriant and varied.[6] ”

Valleys and districts

Valley District Area (km²) Population (1998) [2001 census for Kargil] Numbers of Estate Headquarters
Khaplu
Ghanche9,40088,36656Khaplu
Skardu
Skardu18,000219,20940Skardu
Shigar
Shigar6,45060,29553Center Shigar
Kharmang
Kharmang5,52062,52243Tolti
Roundu
Skardu_80,00023Thowar
Gultari
Skardu __10
Purig
Kargil 14,086 km2 143,3889Kargil

History

For centuries, Baltistan consisted of small independent valley states that were connected to each other through blood relationships of the rulers (rajas), trade, common beliefs and strong cultural and language bonds.[7] These states were subjugated by force by the Dogra rulers of Kashmir in the nineteenth century.[8] On 29 August 2009 the Government of the Islamic Republic of Pakistan legally announced the creation of Gilgit–Baltistan, a new province-like autonomous region with Gilgit city as its capital and Skardu as the largest city.

The last Maqpon king Ahmed Shah (killed in 1840 by Dogra rulers)

Baltistan was known as Little Tibet in olden days[9] and in course of time this name was extended to include the area of Ladakh as well. Later on, in order to differentiate it from Ladakh, Baltistan was called Little Tibet whereas Ladakh was known as Great Tibet. But locally Ladakh and Baltistan is known as Maryul ("Red Country") and Baltistan is known as Baltiyul.[10]

Origin of Baltis and Baltistan

“ Tibetan Khampa entered in Khaplu through Chorbat Valley and Dardic tribes came to Baltistan through Roundu Valley from Gilgit prior to civilization, and these groups eventually settled down, creating the Balti people.[11] ”

Today the people of Kharmang, Western Khaplu, and Kargil shows Tibetan race in their physical features while the people of Skardu, Shigar and eastern villages of Khaplu are Dard people.[12]

It was believed that the Balti people came under the sphere of influence from the kingdom of Zhang Zhung. Baltistan came under the control of the Tibetan king Songtsen Gampo in the 7th century. Under Tibetan cultural influence, the Bon and Animist Baltis began to adopt Tibetan Buddhism. Religious artifacts such as the Gompas and Chortens were erected, and Lamas played an important role in the lives of the Baltis.[13][14][15]
It was in the 14th century that religious Muslim scholars from the Muslim World and Kashmir penetrated Baltistan’s mountainous terrain to spread Islam amongst a people who were originally Buddhist.[16] The Kharmang came under the control of the Namgyal royal family, and fostered a close relationship with Ladakh in the east when the Raja of Ladakh, Jamyang Mangyal, attacked the principalities in the district of Purik annihilating the Skardu garrison at Kharbu and putting to sword a number of petty Muslim rulers in the Muslim principalities in Purik (Kargil), Ali Sher Khan Anchan, Sher Ghazi, Raja of Khaplu and Raja of Shigar left with a strong army by way of Marol and by passing the Laddakhi army occupied Leh, the capital of Ladakh. The Raja of Ladakh was ultimately taken prisoner.[17][18][19]

Ali Sher Khan Anchan also included Gilgit and Chitral into his kingdom of baltistan.[20] It is related that Baltistan was a flourishing country during the reign of Ali Sher Khan Anchan. They valley from Khepchne to Kachura was flat and fertile and fruit trees abounded in it. The sandy desert now extending from Sundus village to the Skardu Airport was a prosperous town. Skardu had hardly recovered from the shock of the death of the Anchan when it was visited by a great flood converting it into a sandy desert.
In 1845, the area came under the rule of the Dogras.[21]

Skardu city in 1800
a typical Balti village

Tourism

The capital of Baltistan, Skardu, maintains several tourist resorts, and boasts many natural features including plains, mountain valley lakes and alpine mountains. Places such as Shangri-la, Deosai plain, Satpara Lake and Basho also host tourists in the region. In the north of Skardu, the Shigar Valley offers plains, hiking tracks, peaks, and camping sites. Other valleys in the Baltistan region are Khaplu, Rondu, Kachura Lake and Kharmang.

Glaciers in Baltistan

The Baltoro Glacier in the Karakoram, Balawaristan. At 62 kilometres (39 mi) in length, it is one of the longest alpine glaciers on earth.

Baltistan is a rocky wilderness of around 27,000 square miles (70,000 km2)[22] containing the largest cluster of mountains anywhere in the world along with the biggest glaciers anywhere outside the polar region. The Himalayas advance into this region from India, Tibet and Nepal while to the north of them spread the more localized Karakoram range. Both ranges run northwest with the Indus River in between. Along the Indus are many valleys alongside the main river and in the path of its tributaries. Glaciers include Baltoro Glacier, Biafo Glacier, Siachen Glacier, Trango Glacier and Godwin-Austen Glacier.

Mountaineering

View of Laila Peak, which is located near Hushe Valley (a town in Khaplu)

Baltistan is home to more than 20 peaks of over 20,000 feet (6,100 m), including K2, the second highest mountain on Earth.[23] Other well known peaks include Masherbrum (also known as K1), Broad Peak, Hidden Peak, Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum IV, and Chogolisa, situated in Khaplu Valley. The following peaks have so far been scaled by various expeditions:

Name of Peak PhotosHeight Date of ConquestLocation
1.K-2 (28,250Ft) 31/7/1954Shigar District
2. Gasherbrum I (26,360Ft) 7/7/1956Ghanche District
3. Broad Peak (26,550) 9/6/1957 Ghanche District
4. Muztagh Tower (23,800Ft) 6/8/1956Ghanche District
5. Gasherbrum II (26,120Ft) 4/7/1958Ghanche District
6. Hidden Peak (26,470Ft) 4/7/1957Ghanche District
7. Khunyang Chhish (25,761 Ft) 4/7/1971 Skardu District
8. Masherbrum (25,659 ft) 4/8/1960 Ghanche District
9. Saltoro Kangri (25,400Ft) 4/6/1962 Ghanche District
10. Chogolisa (25,148 Ft) 4/8/1963Ghanche District

Demographics

Baltistan has a population of about 322,000 which is a blend of many different ethnic groups, predominantly Tibetans Baltis[24] and Monpas while a few Kasmiri merchants settled in Skardu which was brought by rulers of Skardu for various purposes like agriculture and woodcraft. Yabgo Royal family of Khaplu[25] were from Yarkant County of China.

Religion

Before the arrival of Islam, Buddhism was the main religion in Baltistan. Buddhism in the region can be traced back to before the formation of the Tibetan in the region, in the 7th century. The region boasts a number of surviving Buddhist archaeological sites. Examples include the rock-relief of Buddha on the edge of Manthal village, to the left of a stream from Satpara lake near Skardu, and the Sacred Rock of Hunza. Furthermore, there are nearby places which were previously sites of Buddhist shelters. These shelters no longer exist due to lack of use over time.

Islam came into Baltistan via different Sufi missionaries from the 16th to the 17th century and soon the populace of the region converted to Noorbakhshi Muslims. Mir Sayed Ali Hamadani came into Baltistan 3 times in different periods via Kashmir and Yarkand. Later Mir Shamsuddin Iraqi Mir Arif, Mir Ishaq, Syed Ali, and Syed Mehmood came into Baltistan to spread the mission of Syed Ali Hamadani. All these Sufi scholars were followers of the Kubrawiyya Noorbakhshi Sufi order.[26] These scholars were Rizvi Syeds. In Baltistan most of the Mosavi sayeds are descendants of Noorbakhshi sufis. Meanwhile Rizvi Syeds came in 19th century to convert Noorbakhshi into Shia Muslims. Today the majority of Noorbakhshi Muslims live in Ghanche and Shigar district, while 30% of Noorbakhshi Muslims still exist in the Skardu district.[27]

Panorama

Panoramic view of Sheosar Lake in Baltistan District.

Fauna

Baltistan has been called a living museum for wildlife.[28] The Baltistan High altitude Deosai National Park, in southern Baltistan, is a good habitat for predators as it has abundant prey populations.
There are two main categories of animals which are found in different parts of Baltistan.

Domesticated animals

This includes yaks, cows, bulls and cross between yak and cows viz ‘ZO’ and ZOMOS, sheep, goats, horses and donkeys.

Wild animals

Wild animals of the area include ibex, markhor, musk deer, snow leopard, brown bear, black bear, jackal, fox, wolf, and marmot.

Balti children from the Shigar Valley

Culture

Balti culture is a mixture of Central Asian, Mughal and Tibetan culture.

Balti music and art

A Balti version says that the Mughal Princess Gul Khatoon better known in Baltistan as Mindoq Gialmo (Flower Queen) brought with her musicians and artisans into Baltistan. The musicians and artisans propagated Mughal music and art under her patronage.[29] Musical instruments such as the ‘Surnai’, ‘Karnai’, ‘Dhol’, ‘Chang’ etc. found their way into Baltistan.

Dance

Classical and other dances are displayed on various occasions including at the marriages of Rajas etc. These can be classified into Sword Dances, Broqchhos and Dewan or Ghazal.[30]

Chhogho Prasul commemorates a great victory by the Maqpon Rajas over their enemies. As a mark of respect the musician who plays on the drum (dang) stands up and goes on playing on it for some time. The Maqpon princes would sometimes dance when this tune was played.

Gasho-Pa, also called Ghbus-La-Khorba, is a sword dance associated with the Gasho Dynasty of Purik (Kargil) who loomed large in this region.

Sneopa, or the Marriage Procession Dance, is performed on the occasion of the marriages of Rajas. The Pachones, twelve Wazirs who accompany the bride, take part in it.

Architecture

view of Chaqchan Mosque in Khaplu

The architecture of Baltistan contains Tibetan and Mughul[31] influences as well as monastic architecture which reflects the Buddhist imprints left in the region. The Buddhist Straight painted can be seen on feature on every Fort, and khanqah of Noorbakhshi sect including the likes of Chaqchan Mosque, Amburik Mosque in Shigar, Khanqah e Muallah Shigar, Khaplu Fort, Shigar Fort, and the Skardu Fort.

Sports

Polo match in skardu around 1820 as depicted in Godfrey Vigne's book

Polo is very popular in Baltistan. This royal sport is indigenous to the Karakoram Range. It was Ali Sher Khan Anchan the Maqpon ruler of Baltistan who introduced this game to other valleys upon his conquests that stretched beyond Gilgit and Chitral.[32]

Popular culture references

Media

The government radio broadcaster "Radio Pakistan " (AIR)[33] and government television station "Skardu TV station" both have stations in Khaplu that broadcast local content for all the day.
There are also a handful of private news outlets.

Notes

  1. ↑ Schofield, Victoria (2003) [First published in 2000], Kashmir in Conflict, London and New York: I. B. Taurus & Co, p. 8, ISBN 1860648983
  2. ↑ Cheema, Brig Amar, (2015), The Crimson Chinar: The Kashmir Conflict: A Politico Military Perspective, Lancer Publishers, p. 30, ISBN 978-81-7062-301-4
  3. ↑ Kaul, H. N. (1998), Rediscovery of Ladakh, Indus Publishing, p. 88, ISBN 978-81-7387-086-6
  4. ↑ Schofield, Victoria (2003) [First published in 2000], Kashmir in Conflict, London and New York: I. B. Taurus & Co, pp. 65–66, ISBN 1860648983
  5. ↑ "In pictures: Life in Baltistan". bbc.com. Retrieved 13 May 2015.
  6. ↑  Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). "Ladakh and Baltistan". Encyclopædia Britannica 16 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. p. 58.
  7. ↑ "A Socio-Political Study of Gilgit Baltistan Province" (PDF).
  8. ↑ Gertel, Jörg; Richard Le Heron (2011). Economic Spaces of Pastoral Production and Commodity Systems. Ashgate. p. 181. ISBN 978-1-4094-2531-1.
  9. ↑ Chisholm 1911.
  10. ↑ Yousaf Hussain Abadi, A view on Baltistan
  11. ↑ Tarar, Mustansar Hussain (1991), Nanga Parbat (in Urdu)
  12. ↑ Where Indus is Young
  13. ↑ Baltistan in History by Banat Gul Afridi 1986
  14. ↑ Tarekh e jammu, molvi hashmatullah
  15. ↑ Hussainabadi, Muhammad Yousuf: Baltistan per Aik Nazar 1984
  16. ↑ "Baltistan - North Pakistan".
  17. ↑ Hussainabadi, Muhammad Yousuf: Tareekh-e-Baltistan 2003
  18. ↑ Kashmir: Its Aborigines and Their Exodus.
  19. ↑ The last colony: Muzaffarabad-Gilgit-Baltistan.
  20. ↑ Proceedings of the International Seminar on the Anthropology of Tibet and the Himalaya.
  21. ↑ Ali, Manzoom (2004, June 12). Archaeology of Dardistan.
  22. ↑ "ABOUT GILGIT-BALTISTAN".
  23. ↑ Baltistan in History, Banat Gul Afridi
  24. ↑ http://www.gilgitbaltistanscouts.gov.pk/geodemo.htm
  25. ↑ "Noorbakhsi Muslims".
  26. ↑ "NYF".
  27. ↑ "Sofia Imamia Noorbakhshia".
  28. ↑ "Beautiful Gilgit Baltistan".
  29. ↑ "BALTI MUSIC AND ART".
  30. ↑ Hussainabadi, Muhammad Yousuf: Balti Zaban 1990
  31. ↑ Wallace, Paul (1996) . A History of Western Himalayas . Penguin Books, London.
  32. ↑ Dani, Ahmad Hassan: History of Northern Areas of Pakistan, National Institute of Historical Research, Islamabad, 1991.
  33. ↑ "Radio Pakistan".
  34. ↑ "dailyk2".
  35. ↑ "Daily Bad e Shimal".
  36. ↑ "Nuwa-e-Sufia".

External links

Wikisource has the text of the 1905 New International Encyclopedia article Baltistan.

Coordinates: 35°18′N 75°37′E / 35.300°N 75.617°E / 35.300; 75.617

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