Boone Speed

Boone Speed

Personal information
Nationality	American
Born	August 29, 1965 Provo, Utah
Occupation	Photographer / Climber
Height	6 feet 1 inch (1.85 m)
Weight	150 pounds (68 kg)
Climbing career
Highest grade	Redpoint: 5.14c (8c+) On-sight: 5.13b (8a) Bouldering: V12 (8A+)

Boone Speed (born August 29, 1965) is an award-winning American photographer^[1] and influential figure^[2] within the sport of rock climbing. The only son of Western sculptor^[3] Ulysess Grant Speed (January 6, 1930 - October 1, 2011), Boone was raised outside of Provo, Utah, and studied Graphic Design at Brigham Young University.

Climbing career

Boone began climbing in the summer of 1985 near Salt Lake City, Utah. By the spring of 1987 Boone had climbed the most challenging routes in the region,^[4] and began traveling to explore new crags in other undeveloped areas, including the sandstone of Red Rocks, outside of Las Vegas, Nevada, American Fork Canyon,^[5] Virgin River Gorge and Logan Canyon, Utah, where Boone became the first American to climb the grade of 5.14b with his first ascent of "Super Tweak"^[6] in 1994.

Boone has been on the cover of Climbing Magazine twice and has had published writing and photography in climbing, lifestyle and travel magazines worldwide.^[7]

Timeline

• 1988 Began developing American Fork’s Hell Cave^[8] is home to many 1990’s era test pieces including Speed’s Power Junkie (5.14a) and his hardest route, “Ice Cream” (5.14c)
• 1989 began to develop the Virgin River Gorge, where Boone established the demanding classics “Fall Of Man” 5.13b (1990) and “Route of all Evil” 5.14a (1994)
• In August 1991, Boone was Climbing Magazine’s cover feature and American Fork Canyon Climbing was its cover story, establishing Salt Lake City as a destination climbing area as well as an influence on the “limestone revolution” in America
• 1990 Boone was featured in the video “Masters Of Stone” on Dead Souls (5.13d) and Burning (5.13b) in American Fork’s “Hell Cave”
• 1990 began to develop Logan Canyon, where Boone became the first American to successfully establish a consensus 5.14b route, “Super Tweak” in 1994
• 1991 began employment as designer at Black Diamond Equipment
• 1994 First ascent of Super Tweak featured in the video “Masters Of Stone 3”^[9]
• 1995 Discovered Joe’s Valley for bouldering (on tip from Conrad Anker^[10]) and established first problems there
• 1995 Original partner of innovative climbing company Pusher where Boone became an influential handhold and training board shaper
• 1996 Pictured on cover of Climbing magazine (for second time) and feature article entitled “Boone Speed Tells All”^[11]
• 1997 met Chris Sharma at base of “Necessary Evil” and established ongoing friendship
• 1997 climbed first ascent of “Ice Cream” 5.14c becoming one of the first 10 climbers in the world to climb the grade^[12]
• 1997-1999 Employed by Fila as a climbing shoe designer and climbing market authenticator
• 1999-2001 Employed as creative director and photographer for Pusher^[13]
• 2001-2007 worked as freelance designer and photographer for Bluewater Ropes and Entre Prises Climbing Walls
• 2005 Featured Photographer at Taos Mountain Film Festival^[14]
• 2009 Photography show at Nau popup in New York
• 2011 PDN's "The Shot" Grand Prize winner^[15]
• 2013 Photographed Chris Sharma and Daila Ojeda for ESPN The Magazine "The Body Issue"^[16]
• 2014 Represented America as climbing Legend at The North Face's Kalymnos Climbing Festival^[17]
• 2015 "Frightening Nature" film accepted into Cannes Short Film Corner (Director of Photography)^[18]

Filmography

• “Masters of Stone"^[19] (1990)
• “Masters of Stone 3"^[20] (1994)
• “Yank on This” (1995)
• “Three Weeks and a Day”^[21] (1996)
• “Best Forgotten Art”^[22] (1996)
• “Fast Twitch”^[23] (1997)
• “Movement” (1998)
• “Free Hueco”^[24] (1998)
• “Frequent Flyers”^[25] (2001)
• “Best of the West”^[26] (2004)
• “Big Game”^[27] (2004)
• “King Lines”^[28] (2007)
• “Perfecto^[29]” (2007)
• “Heraklia”^[30] (2008)
• "Running From Crazy"^[31] (2012)
• “Project American Fork"^[32] (2013)

References

1. "Photographer Boone Speed". Retrieved 2015-07-01.
2. "Climbing Legends - James Pearson on Boone Speed - THE NORTH FACE JOURNAL". Retrieved 2015-07-01.
3. "Von Allen - Marriott Library - The University of Utah". www.lib.utah.edu. Retrieved 2015-07-01.
4. "Get Shorty - The 5 best miniature sport routes in America - Climbing". Retrieved 2015-07-12.
5. "Documenting AF Canyon and the climbing revolution | KSL.com". www.ksl.com. Retrieved 2015-06-26.
6. "Hard rock climbs - First routes of each grade". web.stanford.edu. Retrieved 2015-07-01.
7. "Top Shots: Climbing's Indelible Images by Boone Speed". www.rockandice.com. Retrieved 2015-07-12.
8. "21 Questions with Boone Speed - Climbing". Retrieved 2015-07-01.
9. "Masters of Stone". www.mastersofstone.com. Retrieved 2015-07-01.
10. "Boone Speed Photography". Retrieved 2015-07-01.
11. "Boone Sheridan Speed - Photographer, Product Designer, Area Developer, Entrepreneur, Smack Talker; Portland, Oregon". Retrieved 2015-07-01.
12. "Hard rock climbs - First routes of each grade". web.stanford.edu. Retrieved 2015-07-01.
13. "An Interview with Boone Speed: Athlete, Photographer, Innovator". Retrieved 2015-07-01.
14. "This Year's Featured Films - Taos Mountain Film Festival, October 7-9, 2005". www.mountainfilm.net. Retrieved 2015-07-01.
15. "The Shot 2011". www.pdngallery.com. Retrieved 2015-07-01.
16. "ESPN's 2013 Body Issue's Bodies We Want". Retrieved 2015-07-01.
17. "The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival". Retrieved 2015-07-01.
18. "FRIGHTENING NATURE". sub.festival-cannes.fr. Retrieved 2015-07-01.
19. "Masters of Stone". mastersofstone.com. Retrieved 2015-06-30.
20. "Masters of Stone". mastersofstone.com. Retrieved 2015-06-30.
21. Three Weeks & A Day: The Road, Rock, Life, Reality - An Epic, retrieved 2015-07-01
22. "Best Forgotten Art - SteepEdge". steepedge.com. Retrieved 2015-07-01.
23. "Rock Climbing Media Reviews: Books, Movies, and more.". www.chockstone.org. Retrieved 2015-07-01.
24. Climbing, Crank (April 21, 2015). "The Crank Chronicles: Crank Media Review: Free Hueco!". The Crank Chronicles. Retrieved 2015-07-01.
25. "Review: Big Up Productions’ Progression DVD". Retrieved 2015-07-01.
26. "Best of the West climbing video download from iCLIMB.com". www.iclimb.com. Retrieved 2015-07-01.
27. "Big game". www.outdoor-films.com. Retrieved 2015-07-01.
28. King Lines, 1 Mar 2007, retrieved 2015-07-01
29. "Perfecto". www.outdoor-films.com. Retrieved 2015-06-30.
30. "Herakleia". Retrieved 2015-07-01.
31. Running from Crazy, 7 Jan 2013, retrieved 2015-07-01
32. "Project American Fork - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles". www.dpmclimbing.com. Retrieved 2015-07-01.