Chabrot

Chabrot

Preparation of chabrot
Alternative names faire chabròl, fà chabroù, godaille, goudale
Course at the end of the soup
Region or state Occitanie
Serving temperature tepid, lukewarm
Main ingredients red wine in oily stock
Cookbook: Chabrot  Media: Chabrot

To perform faire chabrot or faire chabròl is an ancient Occitanian custom whereby at the end of a soup or broth, one adds red wine to the plate to dilute the remnants of the stock and brings it to the lips to drink it in big gulps.[1]

History

A grape-picker from Provence performing “chabrot”

Chabrot was usually performed with soups such as bréjaude or garbure.[2] This action required the usage of a traditional container used for serving soups, such as a deep, spherical bowl or a dish.[3] This container usually had no handles, was made of clay, in a dome form and somewhat narrow.[3] This practice was very popular historically. It is still practised today notably among older people in the countryside.

People from Périgord perform fà chabroù ; in Limousin one performs chabrot ; while in Provence, Frédéric Mistral explains that cabroù comes from the Latin capreolus. To perform faire chabrot, is therefore “to drink like a goat .” In Poitou and in Saintonge, the word “godaille” is also used. In Gascon, they use the term godala (likely a metathesis of goulade, “gulp”[4]).

This practice appears to have existed north of the Loire: in the last volume of Chronique des Pasquier, Georges Duhamel writes of a longstanding practice, "It was a custom of my father", which was called champorot and which was chabrot.

Modern Usage

Chabrot in the past
Chabrot today

Chabrot is a custom which still continues, notably in the Southwest of France. Jean Rebier (1879-1966), founder of the revue Lemouzi, describes the practice of chabrot as still relevant, "The soupe is regularly followed by a nice chabròl." Just as the ethnologist Albert Goursaud, deceased 1975, still talks about in the present, in his book The traditional rural society of Limousin: ethnography and folklore of Haut-Limousin and Basse-Marche published the year after his death. In his work, he distinguishes the traditions which are lost and those which continued at the time he wrote it. Chabrot was performed commonly, at least in the countryside, just until the middle of the 20th century.

Catalan Jaume Fàbrega, born in 1948, indicates in Cuina del país dels càtars that while young, he witnessed at home lo cabròt.[5] Roland Manoury, musicologist and poet of Auvergne, created a march of glory for chabrot which is traditionally accompanied by accordion. Its refrain asserts:[6]

To the soup ! To the soup ! (À la soupe ! À la soupe !)
It’s time for chabrot. (Voici l'heure du chabrot.)
We have wine astern (Nous, on a le vin en poupe)
When we have stock all hot (Quand on a le bouillon tout chaud)
We pour a glassful (On verse un' rasade)
Of strong red wine (De vin rouge bien costaud.)
If, moreover we are sick (Si, de plus on est malade)
To recover , perform chabrot (Pour guérir, faisons chabrot.)

Today, chabrot is considered an old and rural gesture, but on certain occasions it can be performed in all environments, in a spirit of connivance and friendliness. During a meal between gastronomists, Philippe Faure-Brac, best sommelier (wine steward) in the world in 1992, owner of « Bistrot du Sommelier » in Paris, and member of GJE,[7] rose and asked for permission to perform chabrot with the rest of his cream of mushroom soup and some 1998 Cheval Blanc. Pierre Lurton, director of the societies of châteaus of Yquem and Cheval Blanc, replied by pouring the bottom of his glass into the soup. Everyone did the same. This modern version of chabrot consisted of tasting the mixture with a spoon, but no one drank directly from the dish.[8]

See also

Notes

  1. ↑ La société rurale traditionnelle en Limousin, pp. 265-266.
  2. ↑ La société rurale traditionnelle en Limousin, p. 112.
  3. 1 2 La société rurale traditionnelle en Limousin, p. 111.
  4. ↑ Simin Palay, Dictionnaire du gascon et du béarnais modernes, CNRS, 1980
  5. ↑ La cuina del país dels càtars, pàg. 154, Jaume Fàbrega, 2003, Ed. Cossetània. ISBN 84-96035-80-8
  6. ↑ Roland Manoury, Faisons chabrot
  7. ↑ Le Grand Jury Européen
  8. ↑ Faire chabrot au Cheval-Blanc avec Philippe Faure-Brac et André Lurton sur le site lapassionduvin.com

References

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