Changabang

Changabang
Changabang

Location in northern India

Highest point
Elevation 6,864 m (22,520 ft)
Prominence circa 300 m (1000 ft)[1]
Coordinates 30°30′0″N 79°55′32″E / 30.50000°N 79.92556°E / 30.50000; 79.92556Coordinates: 30°30′0″N 79°55′32″E / 30.50000°N 79.92556°E / 30.50000; 79.92556
Geography
Location Garhwal Division, Uttarakhand, India
Parent range Garhwal Himalayas
Climbing
First ascent 4 June 1974 by Tashi Chewang, Balwant Sandhu, Chris Bonington, Martin Boysen, Dougal Haston, Doug Scott[2]
Easiest route Southeast Face/East Ridge (snow/ice climb)

Changabang is a mountain in the Garhwal Himalaya of Uttarakhand, India. It is part of a group of peaks that form the northeast wall of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary. It is a particularly steep and rocky peak, and all routes on it are serious undertakings. It has been the site of many significant climbs. It does not have a high topographic prominence, being slightly lower than its near neighbor Kalanka to the east, and lower than many other peaks in the immediate vicinity, but its steep rocky profile has made it a more attractive destination than its elevation would indicate.

First ascent

Changabang was first climbed on 4 June 1974 by an expedition led by Lt. Col Balwant Sandhu and Chris Bonington, via the Southeast Face, leading to the East Ridge. This is the easiest route on the mountain, and one of the few that is primarily a snow/ice climb, as opposed to a rock climb with some snow, ice, or mixed terrain.[2]

Notable ascents

Other notable ascents include some of the hardest climbs ever done in the Himalaya.

On 12 October 2006, two Mexican climbers, Andrés Delgado and Alfonso de la Parra, summited Changabang by a new route. While descending, they encountered a storm and were officially reported missing by the Indian Mountaineering Federation on 15 October, when they last made a contact via satellite phone. An initial rescue effort was made despite harsh weather conditions, but on 8 November 2006 the search was canceled due to continued harsh weather.[9][10]

References

  1. This is an approximate figure, based on the 1:150,000 scale topographic map Garhwal-Himalaya-Ost, Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research.
  2. 1 2 Andy Fanshawe and Stephen Venables, Himalaya Alpine-Style, Hodder and Stoughton, 1995, ISBN 0-340-64931-3
  3. Toda, Naoki (1977). "Changabang, Southwest Ridge". American Alpine Journal (New York, New York, US: American Alpine Club) 21 (51): 248.
  4. Tasker, Joe (1977). "Changabang, West Wall". American Alpine Journal (New York, New York, US: American Alpine Club) 21 (51): 248–249.
  5. Porter, John (1979). "Bandaka and Changabang". American Alpine Journal (New York, New York, US: American Alpine Club) 22 (53): 29–35. ISSN 0065-6925.. (available also internet version, see External links)
  6. "Changabang". Alpinist (, US) 1 (51): 30. 1982.
  7. Fowler, Mick (1998). "A Touch Too Much?". American Alpine Journal (Golden, Colorado, US: American Alpine Club) 40 (72): 53–68. ISBN 0-930410-78-5.
  8. Buhler, Carlos (1999). "Russian Style on Changabang". American Alpine Journal (Golden, Colorado, US: American Alpine Club) 41 (73): 106–113. ISBN 0-930410-84-X.
  9. El Universal Grafico
  10. Everest News 11-08-2006

External links

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