Figure 8 (Belay Device)

A figure-eight descender

The Figure 8 Belay Device is a piece of metal (usually an aluminum alloy) in the shape of an 8 with one large end and one small end. This device utilities a large surface area in contact with a climbing rope to provide sufficient friction along with proper technique to be used as a belaying device or for rappelling. A figure 8 (sometimes just referred to as an 8) is used in conjunction with a Climbing harness and locking carabiner to keep a climber safe and control their descent or ones own descent (when rappelling)

Pros

Figure 8s offer a very smooth controlled descent when rappelling and lowering climbers.[1] They can be used with nearly any diameter climbing rope and don't get as hot as other friction devices because of their ability to dissipate heat efficiently.[2]

Cons

A Figure 8 should only be used for top rope climbing because of its inability to handle the impact and stop the descent of a falling climber who is lead climbing. For lead climbers an assisted belay device (e.g. grigri) or ATC type belay device is recommended.[3]

References

  1. ↑ Cox, Steven M. and Kris Fulsaas, ed., ed. (2003-09). Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills (7 ed.). Seattle: The Mountaineers. ISBN 0-89886-828-9.
  2. ↑ "Belay Devices: How to Choose". Rei.com. 2013-06-20. Retrieved 2013-10-24.
  3. ↑ "Forum: figure 8 v ATC". Mountain Project. Retrieved 2013-10-24.

Bibliography

External links

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