Japanese street fashion

There are many styles of street fashion in Japan, created from a mix of both local and foreign labels. Some of these styles are extreme and avant-garde, similar to the haute couture seen on European catwalks. The rise and fall of many of these trends has been chronicled by Shoichi Aoki since 1997 in the fashion magazine Fruits, which is a notable magazine for the promotion of street fashion in Japan.

In 2003, Japanese hip-hop, which had long been present among underground Tokyo's club scene, influenced the mainstream fashion industry.[1] The popularity of the music was so influential that Tokyo's youth imitated their favorite hip hop stars from the way they dress with over-sized clothes to tanned skin.[2]

Modern Japanese street fashion

Though the styles have changed over the years, street fashion is still prominent in Japan today. Young adults can often be found wearing subculture attire in large urban fashion districts such as Harajuku, Ginza, Odaiba, Shinjuku, and Shibuya.

Lolita

Gothic Lolita
Main article: Lolita fashion

Containing many different themes within its boundaries, Lolita has become one of the larger, more recognizable styles in Japanese street fashion and is now gaining interest worldwide. The more well-known styles within Lolita fashion are as follows:

Gyaru

Gyaru being photographed in Ikebukuro in 2009
Main article: Gyaru

Gyaru, which is sometimes known as ganguro, which is actually a subcategory of gyaru, is a type of Japanese street fashion that originated in the 1970s. Gyaru focuses on girly-glam style, dwelling on man-made beauty (wigs, fake lashes, fake nails etc.). Gyaru is also heavily inspired by Western fashion.

Ganguro

Two ganguro girls in Tokyo, April 2008
Main article: Ganguro

The ganguro style of Japanese street fashion became popular among Japanese girls in the early 1990s and peaked in the early 2000s. Ganguro falls into the larger subculture of gyaru fashion. Ganguro typically includes brightly coloured outfits, mini-skirts, and tie-dyed sarongs. The ganguro style consists of bleached hair, a deep tan, fake eyelashes, black and white eyeliner, bracelets, earrings, rings, necklaces and platform shoes.

Kogal

A kogal identified by her loose socks and shortened skirt
Main article: Kogal

The kogal (kogyaru) look is based on a high school uniform, but with a shorter skirt, loose socks, and often dyed hair and a scarf as well. The girls sometimes call themselves gyaru (gals). This style was prominent in the 1990s, but has since declined.

Bōsōzoku

Japanese cosplayers dressed up in bōsōzoku-style outfits
Main article: Bōsōzoku

While bōsōzoku fashion has not been popular since the 1990s, the stereotypical bōsōzoku look is often portrayed, and even caricatured, in many forms of Japanese media such as anime, manga and films. The typical bōsōzoku member is often depicted in a uniform consisting of a jumpsuit like those worn by manual laborers or a tokko-fuku (特攻服), a type of military issued over-coat with kanji slogans. These are usually worn open, with no shirt underneath, showing off bandaged torsos and matching baggy pants tucked inside tall boots.

Decora

The Decora style originated in the late 1990s/early 2000s and rose to great popularity both in and outside Japan. The clothes are usually in black, dark pink or baby pink, but other neon colors were also acceptable. A plain shirt and hoodie was often worn with short tutu-like skirts. The hair (often worn in low ponytails with long bangs) and make-up itself tends to be quite plain. However, the most significant part of decora is to pile on many layers of cute accessories until the bangs and shirt are barely visible. Stockings, legwarmers, armwarmers, and knee socks are also worn over each other in different layers. Common details also include leopard prints and patterned dental masks. The style was eventually merged/replaced in the late 2000s by fairy kei and OTT (over-the-top) lolita in Japan, though it is still a relatively popular style overseas.

Visual kei

Main article: Visual kei

Visual kei is a style created in the mid-1980s by Japanese musicians consisting of striking makeup, unusual hair styles and flamboyant costumes, similar to Western glam rock and glam metal. Androgyny is also a popular aspect of the style. Some of the more well-known and influential artists of the style include X Japan, Luna Sea, Versailles, The Gazette, Mejibray, Royz, L'Arc en Ciel, An Cafe, Malice Mizer, and Diaura.

Oshare kei

Oshare kei is a version of Visual kei and is seen as the most fashionable and cutting edge of the styles. The style focuses a lot on mixing different patterns, bright colors and punk elements to create a unique look. Unlike Visual kei, the make-up is toned down a bit and focuses more on the eyes alone. Facial piercings are also common. Just like Visual kei, Oshare kei has been largely influenced by musical artists. Some of those include An Cafe, Panic Channel, Ichigo69, Lolita23q, SuG, Delacroix, LM.C, and Aicle.

Angura kei

Angura kei is the darkest visual kei style. The clothes of the style tend to be mostly black, but with spikes and chains. Make-up is worn dark and heavy. The style has been compared to the modern goth. Like the other two styles mentioned, Angura kei is heavily influenced by underground music with the same name. Some of the most well-known ones include MUCC, Floppy, Guniw Tools, Metronome and Nookicky.

Cult party kei

Cult party kei, named after the Harajuku shop Cult Party (now known as the Virgin Mary), is a relatively new coined style that is based on Western religious artifacts like crosses or bibles. Common aspects include crosses wired in yarn, layers of fabric in soft colors, lots of cream lace, satin bows and bible prints. The make-up and hairstyle is not as over the top as other styles. In fact, Cult party kei is often worn with natural looking make-up without any larger emphasis on the eyes and simple hair-dos with roses. Cult party kei is considered by some to be a subset of dolly kei.

Dolly kei

Dolly kei is a style based on Japan's view of the Middle Ages and European fairy tales, especially the Brothers Grimm and Hans Christian Andersen. It includes a lot of vintage-style clothing and sometimes has religious symbols. Grimoire is a store in Japan that has been described as 'the pioneering store behind the Dolly-kei fashion scene'.[4]

Fairy kei

A model in a Care Bear Kei outfit.

A childlike style. Outfits are made up of pastel colors (like lavender, baby blue, light pink, mint green, pale yellow, etc.), angel, toy and baby motifs and elements and accessories from Western toy lines of the 1980s and early 1990s, such as My Little Pony, Strawberry Shortcake, Rainbow Brite, Popples, Lady Lovely Locks, Barbie, Wuzzles, and Care Bears. Pastel colored hair is common although natural hair is also popular, hair is usually kept simple and decorated with anything cute or pastel; bows are a common theme. The term fairy-kei originated from the magazine called Zipper (despite common belief that it was created by Sauri Tabuchi, the owner of Tokyo fashion store Spank! which was the accidental creator of the style).[5]

Mori girl

Mori (which means forest) fashion uses soft, loosely fitting layers of garments such as floaty dresses and cardigans. It places an emphasis on natural fabrics (cotton, linen, wool) and hand-made or vintage accessories with a nature theme. The color scheme tends to be light and neutral, but patterns such as gingham and florals may also be used. In terms of hairstyles, bangs (often curled) and braids are very popular. Mori girls dress up like a girl who has walked out of the forest. It is similar to dolly kei in that the aim is to create a doll-like appearance, but in a more casual, earthy manner.[6]

Fashion industry and popular brands

Although Japanese street fashion is known for its mix-match of different styles and genres, and there is no single sought-after brand that can consistently appeal to all fashion groups, the huge demand created by the fashion-conscious population is fed and supported by Japan's vibrant fashion industry. Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, and Rei Kawakubo of the Comme des Garçons are often said to be the three cornerstone brands of Japanese fashion. Together they were particularly recognized as a Japanese fashion force in the early 1980s for their intensive use of monochrome color and cutting-edge design.

As early as the 1950s, there were a few brands specially catered to street fashion, like Onitsuka Tiger (now known as the ASICS), but arguably it was not until the early 1990s that the industry saw a blooming emergence of street fashion brands. The most popular ones include: A Bathing Ape, Comme des Garçons, Evisu, Head Porter, OriginalFake, Uniqlo, Visvim, WTAPs, Undercover, Mastermind Japan and Hysteric Glamour. Street Fashion brands frequently feature collaborations with popular artists and designers and use limited edition as a selling strategy. There are also brands that target specific fashion groups. For example, Angelic Pretty is for Lolita style and Sex Pot Revenge for Punk style.

Japan is also known for its significant consumption of foreign luxury brands. According to data from 2006, Japan consumed 41 percent of the entire world's luxury goods.[7] The blue line of Burberry is among the most successful in this arena.

International influence

Japanese street fashion influences the West Coast of the United States.[8] High-end fashion brands like Comme des Garçons have played a big role in the global industry since the 80s, especially through frequent cross-over guest design with other brands. In 2008, Rei Kawakubo designed for Louis Vuitton[9] and H&M.[10]

Tomoko Yamanaka's work was featured at London Fashion Week, 2010.[11]

Social motives

The motives driving the pursuit of fashion in Japan are complex. Firstly, the relatively large disposable income available to Japanese youth is significant. Many argue this was made possible through youth living at home with their parents, reducing living expenses.[12] In addition, the emergence of a strong youth culture in the 1960s and 1970s that continues today (especially in the Harajuku district) drives much of the striving for new and different looks. The rise of consumerism to an important part of the "national character" of Japan during the economic boom of the 1980s and even after the bubble burst also contributes to the pursuit of fashion. These factors result in swift turnover and variability in styles popular at any one time.[13]

See also

References

  1. ↑ Takatsuki, Yo (2003-12-17). "Japan grows its own hip-hop". BBC News.
  2. ↑ Condry, Ian. Hip-hop Japan: Rap and the Paths of Cultural Globalization. Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 2006.
  3. ↑ "Kodona".
  4. ↑ "Grimoire Shibuya - Japanese Dolly-kei & Vintage Fashion Wonderland". Tokyofashion.com. 2010-03-13. Retrieved 2011-12-11.
  5. ↑ McInnes, Paul. "Spank! – Japanese "80s Pop Disco" Fashion in Tokyo". tokyofashion.com. tokyofashion.com. Retrieved 28 March 2012.
  6. ↑ SHOJI, KAORI (February 8, 2010). "Cult of the Living Doll in Tokyo". NY Times. Retrieved March 30, 2012.
  7. ↑ Japan External Trade Organization| Japan is the world's most concentrated source of revenue for luxury brands
  8. ↑ http://liftmeupwardrobe.co.uk/2013/07/19/fashion-sensei/
  9. ↑ http://www.style.com/stylefile/2008/08/rei-kawakubo-puts-her-stamp-on-louis-vuitton/
  10. ↑ http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2008/04/03/comme-des-garcons-for-handm
  11. ↑ "Designer profile : Cabinet by Tomoko Yamanaka". London Fashion Week. 2011-09-21. Retrieved 2011-12-11.
  12. ↑ Letter from Tokyo: Shopping Rebellion – What the kids want
  13. ↑ Godoy, T. (2007). Style Deficit Disorder. San Francisco: Chronicle Books LLC.

External links

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