Marko Prezelj

Marko Prezelj (born 13 October 1965) is a Slovenian mountaineer and photographer.
Prezelj received three Piolet d'Or awards. He won the inaugural "Oscar of mountaineering" in 1992 with Andrej Å tremfelj for their new route on the south ridge of Kangchenjunga South (8476) in alpine style.[1] The second he received in 2007 with Boris LorenÄiÄ, for the first ascent of Chomolhari's northwest pillar in October 2006. Prezelj rejected his second award[2] because of his concern about the dangers of a competition.[3] In 2014 he received his third Piolet d'Or together with AleÅ¡ ÄŒesen and Luka LindiÄ for their first ascent of the north face of Hagshu in the Indian Himalaya.[4][5][6]
Prezelj has a degree in Chemical Engineering and is a IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guide and climbing instructor. He is married and has two sons.[7]
Ascents (selection)
- 1987 Lhotse Shar Expedition (reached 7300 m)
- 1988 New route on the north face of Cho Oyu
- 1989 Shisha Pangma south face attempt; solo ascent of the Kang Ri (6240 m)
- 1991 Kangchenjunga (8476 m) south ridge new route, first ascent of Boktoh (6142 m), second ascent of Talung (7349 m)
- 1992 First ascent of Melungtse (7181 m)
- 1993 El Capitan, fifth ascent of Wyoming Sheep Ranch
- 1995 Torre Norte del Paine in Chile.
- 1998 New route on Porong Ri East Summit (7284 m) and Yebokangal Ri (7332 m)
- 1999 First ascent of the north wall of the Gyachung Kang (7952 m)
- 2000 Second ascent of the "Golden Pillar" of Spantik
- 2001 Begguya and Denali (6193 m)in Alaska - "Light Traveller" on the south face, new route, free climbed in a single push style, and Nilkanth west ridge (6596 m)
- 2002 Nuptse south face attempt
- 2004 North Twin North Face ascent with Steve House and Kapura Peak (6544m), new route and first ascent
- 2005 Kayish new route
- 2006 "The Long Run" on Cerro Torre and "Extreme Emotions" on Cerro Standhardt, free on sight ascent of "Cobra Oillar" on Mt. Barille (Alaska) andChomolhari (7326 m) northwest pillar
- 2007 First ascent of K7 in Karakoram
- 2008 New route on W face of Kangchungtse (7678 m)
- 2009 Baghirathi IV, III and II new routes
- 2010 Bisotun Wall, Iran, new route
- 2011 Makalu W face attempt (reached 7000 m) and integral ridge traverse of Chago peaks
External links
- ↑ http://www.mountainfuture.at/deutsch/alpinisten/0196PrezeljMarko.htm
- ↑ [http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP18/newswire-prezelj-rejects-piolet-d'or
- ↑ The other side of the 2006 “Golden Ice Axeâ€: Montagnes talks about Prezelj and the Piolet at climbing.com
- ↑ Pioletsdor.com: The committee has chosen three ascents...
- ↑ Alpinist.com: Permit Fiasco Leads Two Teams to One Kishtwar Peak
- ↑ UK Climbing: Slovenian First Ascent on Hagshu North Face
- ↑ Website of Marko Prezelj
External links
- Website of Marko Prezelj
- Piolet d'Or winner question awards
- biography and more information