Oliver Perry-Smith
Oliver Perry-Smith (October 11, 1884 in Philadelphia – 13 May 1969[1]) was an American rock climber, mountaineer and skier who moved to Dresden in 1902 to attend a technical university.
Climbs in Saxon Switzerland
He became well known in the Sächsische Schweiz for the first ascents of major sandstone rock towers such as:
- Schrammtorwächter (VI) in 1905
- Kanzelturm (VI) in 1905
- Teufelsturm (VIIb) in 1906 (at 5.8+ - with a shoulder stand - a very difficult rock climb)
and first ascents of several climbing routes that are still very popular today, e. g.:
- Spannagelturm Perrykante VIIb in 1906
- Falkenstein Südriss (VIIa) in 1913
- Daxenstein Klavier (VIIa) in 1913
- Daxenstein Perryriss (VIIb) in 1913
(All grades Saxon rating)
In total "he made more than 90 ascents in Saxon Switzerland, 33 of which are rated VI or above; there were 32 first ascents, 13 solo climbs and 36 additional ones on which he led".[2]
Alps
On a trip to the Alps in 1908 he and his friend Rudolf Fehrmann made a number of first ascents.
- The most famous is the "Fehrmann Corner" (in German, Fehrmannverschneidung), V-, on Campanile Basso, SW face (also known as "Guglia di Brenta", in Brenta group in Dolomites, on August 28). Despite its name, this route was led by Perry-Smith (because, as explained in biographical article in AAJ 1964, "Fehrmann was the first to sign the summit book and later he was assumed by later climbers to be a leader"[3]).
- One of others of their new routes is the north face of Cima Piccola di Lavaredo (in German: Kleine Zinne), Aug 15.[3]
In the Alps "his repeated ascents include also Weisshorn, Matterhorn, Dent Blanche, Zinalrothorn, Wellenkuppe, Obergabelhorn, Kleine Zinne".[2]
Skiing
Beside his achievements in climbing, he also won the Austrian championship in cross-country-skiing and ski-jumping in 1914.
Other aspects
There are a number of anecdotes depicting Perry-Smith as a rather unusual character:
- When people doubted his ascent of 'Perryriss', he climbed that route again and wrote in big letters 'Perry' on the rock. (it can still be read today)
- He owned a Bugatti race car and got in trouble with the police several times for driving fast and hazardously.
- He was once arrested for getting drunk and disturbing the peace in the town of Bad Schandau.
In the year 1914 Oliver Perry-Smith returned to the US, never to visit Saxony again.
See also
References
- ↑ Proceedings of the Club: Secretary report for the year 1969, AAJ 1970, pp. 224, lines 6-8 (for pdf version, see External links)
- 1 2 J. M. Thorington, In Memoriam: Oliver Perry Smith..., AAJ, 1970, pp. 218 (see section "Sources")
- 1 2 J. M. Thorington, Oliver Perry Smith; Profile of a Mountaineer, AAJ, 1964, p. 113 (see "Sources")
Sources
- J. Monroe Thorington, Oliver Perry Smith; Profile of a Mountaineer, American Alpine Journal (AAJ) 1964, pp. 99–120 (with 14 photographs in additional plates)
- J. Monroe Thorington, In Memoriam: Oliver Perry Smith (1884-1969), AAJ, 1970, pp. 218–219
External links
- pdf version of article by J. M. Thorington, Oliver Perry-Smith..., AAJ, 1964, pp. 99-120 and l Plates 77-90 (Retrieved February 27, 2011)
- pdf version of obituary by J. M. Thorington, Oliver Perry-Smith (1884-1969), AAJ, 1970, pp. 218–219 (Retrieved February 27, 2011)
- Proceedings of the Club: Secretary report for the year 1969, AAJ, 1970, pp. 224–226 (Retrieved February 27, 2011)
- Oliver Perry-Smith illustrated biography in the section The Great Pioneers of Modern Rock Climbing (Retrieved February 27, 2011)