Lard

For other uses, see Lard (disambiguation).
Lard

Wet-rendered lard, from pork fatback.
Fat composition
Saturated fats
Total saturated 38–43%:
Palmitic acid: 25–28%
Stearic acid: 12–14%
Myristic acid: 1%
Unsaturated fats
Total unsaturated 56–62%
Monounsaturated 47–50%:
Oleic acid: 44–47%
Palmitoleic acid: 3%
Polyunsaturated Linoleic acid: 6–10%[1][2]
Properties
Food energy per 100 g (3.5 oz) 3,770 kJ (900 kcal)
Melting point backfat: 30–40 °C (86–104 °F)
leaf fat: 43–48 °C (109–118 °F)
mixed fat: 36–45 °C (97–113 °F)
Smoke point 121–218 °C (250–424 °F)
Specific gravity at 20 °C (68 °F) 0.917–0.938
Iodine value 45–75
Acid value 3.4
Saponification value 190–205
Unsaponifiable 0.8%[2]

Lard is pig fat in both its rendered and unrendered forms. It is obtained from any part of the pig where there is a high proportion of adipose tissue. It can be rendered by steaming it or boiling it in water and then separating the insoluble fat from the water, or by the use of dry heat. It is a semi-soft white fat with a high saturated fatty acid content and no transfats, and refined lard is usually sold as paper-wrapped blocks. Being a product obtained from a pig, it is not an acceptable food ingredient in some cultures.

Lard is commonly used in many cuisines around the world as a cooking fat or shortening, or as a spread similar to butter. It is an ingredient in various savoury dishes such as sausages, pates and fillings, and it is particularly favored for the preparation of pastry because of the "flakiness" it brings to the product. Its use in western contemporary cuisine has diminished with the increased popularity of vegetable oils, but many contemporary cooks and bakers still favor it over other fats for certain select uses. The culinary qualities of lard vary somewhat depending on the part of the pig from which the fat was taken and how the lard was processed.

Lard production

Lard can be obtained from any part of the pig where there is a high concentration of fatty tissue. The highest grade of lard, known as leaf lard, is obtained from the "flare" visceral fat deposit surrounding the kidneys and inside the loin. Leaf lard has little pork flavor, making it ideal for use in baked goods, where it is valued for its ability to produce flaky, moist pie crusts. The next-highest grade is obtained from fatback, the hard subcutaneous fat between the back skin and muscle of the pig. The lowest grade (for purposes of rendering into lard) is obtained from the soft caul fat surrounding digestive organs, such as small intestines, though caul fat is often used directly as a wrapping for roasting lean meats or in the manufacture of pâtés.[3][4][5]

Lard may be rendered by either of two processes: wet or dry. In wet rendering, pig fat is boiled in water or steamed at a high temperature and the lard, which is insoluble in water, is skimmed off the surface of the mixture, or it is separated in an industrial centrifuge. In dry rendering, the fat is exposed to high heat in a pan or oven without the presence of water (a process similar to frying bacon). The two processes yield somewhat differing products. Wet-rendered lard has a more neutral flavor, a lighter color, and a high smoke point. Dry-rendered lard is somewhat more browned in color and flavor and has a lower smoke point.[6][7] Rendered lard produces an unpleasant smell when mixed with oxygen.[8]

Industrially-produced lard, including much of the lard sold in supermarkets, is rendered from a mixture of high- and low-quality fat sourced from throughout the pig.[9] Lard is often hydrogenated to improve its stability at room temperature. Hydrogenated lard sold to consumers typically contains fewer than 0.5 g of transfats per 13 g serving.[10] Lard is also often treated with bleaching and deodorizing agents, emulsifiers, and antioxidants such as BHT.[4][11] These treatments make it more consistent and prevent spoilage. (Untreated lard must be refrigerated or frozen to prevent rancidity.)[12][13]

Consumers seeking a higher-quality source of lard typically seek out artisanal producers of rendered lard, or render it themselves from leaf lard or fatback.[9][13][14][15][16]

A by-product of dry-rendering lard is deep-fried meat, skin and membrane tissue known as cracklings.[4]

Composition

A triglyceride molecule, the main constituent of lard.

Lard consists mainly of fats, which in the language of chemistry are known as triglycerides. These triglycerides are composed of three fatty acids and the distribution of fatty acids varies from oil to oil. In general lard is similar to tallow in its composition.[17] Pigs that have been fed different diets will have lard with a significantly different fatty acid content and iodine value. Peanut-fed hogs or the acorn-fed pigs raised for Jamón ibérico therefore produce a somewhat different kind of lard compared to pigs raised in North American farms that are fed corn.[2][18]

History and cultural use

Raw fatback being diced to prepare tourtière.

Lard has always been an important cooking and baking staple in cultures where pork is an important dietary item, the fat of pigs often being as valuable a product as their meat.[4]

During the 19th century lard was used similarly to butter in North America and many European nations.[17] Lard remained about as popular as butter in the early 20th century, and was widely used as a substitute for butter during World War II. As a readily available by-product of modern pork production, lard had been cheaper than most vegetable oils, and it was common in many people's diet until the industrial revolution made vegetable oils more common and more affordable. Vegetable shortenings were developed in the early 1900s, which made it possible to use vegetable-based fats in baking and in other uses where solid fats were called for. Negative publicity was generated by Upton Sinclair's novel The Jungle which, though fictional, portrayed men falling into rendering vats and being sold as lard.

By the late 20th century lard began to be considered less healthy than vegetable oils (such as olive and sunflower oil) because of its high content of saturated fatty acids and cholesterol. However despite its reputation, lard has less saturated fat, more unsaturated fat and less cholesterol than an equal amount of butter by weight.[2] Unlike many margarines and vegetable shortenings, unhydrogenated lard contains no transfats. It has also been regarded as a "poverty food".[4]

Many restaurants in the western nations have eliminated the use of lard in their kitchens because of the health-related dietary restrictions of many of their customers, and religious pork-based dietary restrictions such as Kashrut and Halal mean that some bakers will substitute beef tallow for lard.

However, in the 1990s and early 2000s the unique culinary properties of lard were rediscovered by chefs and bakers, leading to a partial rehabilitation of this fat among "foodies". This trend has been partially driven by negative publicity about the transfat content of the partially hydrogenated vegetable oils in vegetable shortening. Chef and food writer Rick Bayless is a prominent proponent of the virtues of lard for certain types of cooking.[14][15][16][19]

It is also again becoming popular in the United Kingdom among aficionados of traditional British cuisine. This led to a "lard crisis" in late 2004.[20][21]

Culinary use

Lard is one of the few edible oils with a relatively high smoke point, attributable to its high saturated fatty acids content. Pure lard is especially useful for cooking since it produces little smoke when heated and has a distinct flavor when combined with other foods. Many chefs and bakers prize lard over other types of shortening because of its flavor and range of applications.[22]

Lard
Nutritional value per 100 g (3.5 oz)
Energy 3,765.6 kJ (900.0 kcal)
0 g
100 g
Saturated 39 g
Monounsaturated 45 g
Polyunsaturated 11 g
0 g
Other constituents
Cholesterol 95 mg
Zinc 0.1 mg
Selenium 0.2 mg
Fat percentage can vary.
Percentages are roughly approximated using US recommendations for adults.
Source: USDA Nutrient Database
Comparative properties of common cooking fats (per 100 g )
Type of fat Total fat (g) Saturated fat (g) Monounsaturated fat (g) Polyunsaturated fat (g) Smoke point
Sunflower oil 100 11 20 69 225 °C (437 °F)[23]
Sunflower oil (high oleic) 100 12 84 [24] 4 [24]
Soybean oil 100 16 23 58 257 °C (495 °F)[23]
Canola oil 100 7 63 28 205 °C (401 °F)[24][25]
Olive oil 100 14 73 11 190 °C (374 °F)[23]
Corn oil 100 15 30 55 230 °C (446 °F)[23]
Peanut oil 100 17 46 32 225 °C (437 °F)[23]
Rice bran oil 100 25 38 37 250 °C (482 °F)[26]
Vegetable shortening (hydrogenated) 71 23 8 37 165 °C (329 °F)[23]
Lard 100 39 45 11 190 °C (374 °F)[23]
Suet 94 52 32 3 200 °C (392 °F)
Butter 81 51 21 3 150 °C (302 °F)[23]
Coconut oil 100 86 6 2 177 °C (351 °F)

Because of the relatively large fat crystals found in lard, it is extremely effective as a shortening in baking. Pie crusts made with lard tend to be flakier than those made with butter. Many cooks employ both types of fat in their pastries to combine the shortening properties of lard with the flavor of butter.[4][27][28]

Lard was once widely used in the cuisines of Europe, China and the New World and still plays a significant role in British, Central European, Mexican and Chinese cuisines. In British cuisine, lard is a traditional ingredient in mince pies and Christmas puddings, lardy cake and for frying fish and chips as well as many other uses. Indeed there are some people in England that eat lard neat, especially at the Lard Championships, held each year in Dorset, with 5000 people attending in the summer of 2007.[20][21]

Lard is traditionally one of the main ingredients in the Scandinavian pâté leverpostej.

1916 advertisement for lard produced by Swift & Company.

In Spain, one of the most popular versions of the Andalusian breakfast includes several kinds of mantecas differently seasoned, consumed spread over toasted bread. Among other variants, manteca colorá (lard with paprika)[29] and zurrapa de lomo (lard with pork flakes)[30] are the preferred ones. In Catalan cuisine lard is used to make the dough for the pastry known as coca. In the Balearics particularly, ensaimades dough also contains lard.

A slice of bread spread with lard was a typical staple in traditional rural cuisine of many countries.

Lard consumed as a spread on bread was once very common in Europe and North America, especially those areas where dairy fats and vegetable oils were rare.[4]

As the demand for lard grows in the high-end restaurant industry, small farmers have begun to specialize in heritage hog breeds with higher body-fat contents than the leaner, modern hog. Breeds such as the Mangalitsa hog of Hungary or Large Black of Great Britain are experiencing an enormous resurgence, to the point that breeders are unable to keep up with demand.[31]

When used without qualification the word 'lard' in English generally refers to wet-rendered lard, which has a very mild, neutral flavor as opposed to the more noticeably pork-flavored dry-rendered lard, or dripping. Dripping sandwiches are still popular in several European countries—Hungarian zsíroskenyér ("lardy bread") or zsírosdeszka ("lardy plank"), and German "Fettbemme", seasoned pork fat. Similar snacks are sometimes served with beer in Poland, Czech Republic and Slovakia. They are generally topped with onions, served with salt and paprika, and eaten as a side-dish with beer. All of these are commonly translated on menus as "lard" sandwiches, perhaps due to the lack of familiarity of most contemporary English native speakers with dripping. Attempts to use Hungarian zsír or Polish smalec (both meaning "fat/lard") when British recipes calling for lard will reveal the difference between the wet-rendered lard and dripping.[32][33] In Taiwan, Hong Kong and Macao, as well as in many parts of China, lard was often consumed mixed into cooked rice along with soy sauce to make "lard rice" (豬油拌飯 or 豬油撈飯). And in Japan, back loin (fatback) lard is frequently used for ramen, creating a thick, nutty, slightly sweet and very hearty dish.

Traditionally, along with peanut oil, lard is extensively used in Asian cooking as a general-purpose cooking oil, esp. in stir-fries and deep-frying.

Schweineschmalz, German lard
Griebenschmalz, German lard with crispy pieces of pork skin

In Germany lard is called Schweineschmalz (literally, "rendered fat from swine") and has been a longtime favorite as a spread. It can be served plain, or it can be mixed with seasonings: pork fat can be enhanced with small pieces of pork skin, called Grieben (cf. Yiddish gribenes) to create Griebenschmalz. Other recipes call for small pieces of apple or onion. In English, however, schmaltz usually refers to kosher fat rendered from chicken, duck or goose.

Schmalzbrot ("bread with Schmalz") can be found on the menu in grounded restaurants or brewery pubs. Schmalzbrot is often served as Griebenschmalz on rye bread accompanied with pickled gherkin.

Vegetarian Grieben from onions or apples, which began as a makeshift means of diluting Schmalz in time of need, became rather popular on their own account because they allow for a specific taste and a lower fat content. Completely vegetarian Schmalz-like spreads based on vegetable fats use those ingredients as well. In Germany it is forbidden to use the term Schmalz for non-lard products.

In Poland lard is often served as a starter. It is mixed with fruit, usually chopped apple, and spread on thick slices of bread.

Other uses

Rendered lard can be used to produce biofuel[34] and soap. Lard is also useful as a cutting fluid in machining. Its use in machining has declined since the mid-20th century as other specially engineered cutting fluids became prominent. However it is still a viable option. Lard and other animal fats were formerly used as an anti-foaming agent in industrial fermentation processes such as brewing; there, animal fats have been superseded by polyethers.[35]

See also

References

      1. ↑ National Research Council. (1976). Fat Content and Composition of Animal Products.; p. 203. Washington, DC: Printing and Publishing Office, National Academy of Science. ISBN 0-309-02440-4
      2. 1 2 3 4 Ockerman, Herbert W. (1991). Source book for food scientists (Second Edition). Westport, CN: AVI Publishing Company.
      3. ↑ Davidson, Alan. (2002). The Penguin Companion to Food. New York: Penguin Books. "Caul"; p 176–177. ISBN 0-14-200163-5
      4. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Davidson, Alan. (2002). The Penguin Companion to Food. New York: Penguin Books. "Lard"; p 530–531. ISBN 0-14-200163-5
      5. ↑ Ockerman, Herbert W. and Basu, Lopa. (2006). Edible rendering – rendered products for human use. In: Meeker DL (ed). Essential Rendering: All About The Animal By-Products Industry. Arlington, VA: National Renderers Association. p 95–110. ISBN 0-9654660-3-5 (Warning: large document).
      6. ↑ Moustafa, Ahmad and Stauffer, Clyde. (1997). Bakery Fats. Brussels: American Soybean Association. Archived February 2, 2007, at the Wayback Machine.
      7. ↑ Rombaur, Irma S, et al. (1997). Joy of Cooking (revised ed). New York: Scribner. "About lard and other animal fats"; p 1069. ISBN 0-684-81870-1
      8. ↑ Vauhini Vara, Today, It's the Bacon, Not the Pigs, that Has Haight-Ashbury Agitated, Wall Street Journal A-Hed (July 10, 2013, 10:31 PM ET).
      9. 1 2 "Ask Cook's: Is Lard an Acceptable Shortening?", Cook's Illustrated, November 2004.
      10. ↑ "Armour: Lard, 64 Oz: Baking". Walmart.com. Retrieved 2012-08-13.
      11. ↑ "Put Lard Back in Your Larder" by Linda Joyce Forristal, Mother Linda's Olde World Cafe and Travel Emporium.
      12. ↑ Matz, Samuel A. (1991). Bakery Technology and Engineering. New York: Springer. "Lard"; p 81. ISBN 0-442-30855-8
      13. 1 2 "Make Your Own Lard: Believe it or not, it's good for you" by Lynn Siprelle, The New Homemaker, Winter 2006.
      14. 1 2 "The Real Thing: nothing beats lard for old-fashioned flavor" by Matthew Amster-Burton, The Seattle Times, September 10, 2006.
      15. 1 2 "Don't let lard throw you into a tizzy" by Jacqueline Higuera-McMahan, San Francisco Chronicle, March 12, 2003.
      16. 1 2 "Light, Fluffy – Believe It, It's Not Butter" by Matt Lee and Ted Lee, New York Times, October 11, 2000.
      17. 1 2 Alfred Thomas (2002). "Fats and Fatty Oils". Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry. Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry. Weinheim: Wiley-VCH. doi:10.1002/14356007.a10_173. ISBN 3-527-30673-0.
      18. ↑ Kaminsky, Peter. (2005). Pig Perfect: Encounters with Remarkable Swine and Some Great Ways to Cook Them. Hyperion. 304 p. ISBN 1-4013-0036-7
      19. ↑ "Heart-stopping moment for doctors as we're falling in love again with lard" by Sally Williams, Western Mail, January 5, 2006.
      20. 1 2 Helen Carter. "Lard crisis: mince pies threatened as supplies dwindle". the Guardian.
      21. 1 2 "Chefs prize it. The French love it. The Poles are hogging it. And now Britain's running out of it." by Christopher Hirst, The Independent, November 20, 2004.
      22. ↑ Julie R. Thomson, "10 Reasons You Should Be Cooking With Lard," HuffPost Taste, 28 April 2014 (Retrieved 5 October 2014).
      23. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 The Culinary Institute of America (2011). The Professional Chef (9th ed.). Hoboken, New Jersey: John Wiley & Sons. ISBN 978-0-470-42135-2. OCLC 707248142.
      24. 1 2 3 "Nutrient database, Release 25". United States Department of Agriculture.
      25. ↑ Katragadda, H. R.; Fullana, A. S.; Sidhu, S.; Carbonell-Barrachina, Á. A. (2010). "Emissions of volatile aldehydes from heated cooking oils". Food Chemistry 120: 59. doi:10.1016/j.foodchem.2009.09.070.
      26. ↑ http://alfaone.ca/rice-bran-oil-faq/
      27. ↑ "Heaven in a Pie Pan – The Perfect Crust" by Melissa Clark, New York Times, November 15, 2006.
      28. ↑ King Arthur Flour. (2003). King Arthur Flour Baker's Companion: The All-Purpose Baking Cookbook. Woodstock, VT: Countryman Press. "Lard"; p. 550. ISBN 0-88150-581-1
      29. ↑ "Manteca "Colorá", tarrina 400g - fabricantes de embutidos, chacinas, venta de embutidos" (in Spanish). Angellopezsanz.es. 2009-01-18. Retrieved 2012-08-13.
      30. ↑ "ZURRAPA DE LOMO TARRINA 400 G - fabricantes de embutidos, chacinas, venta de embutidos" (in Spanish). Angellopezsanz.es. 2009-01-18. Retrieved 2012-08-13.
      31. ↑ Sanders, Michael S. (March 29, 2009). "An Old Breed of Hungarian Pig Is Back in Favor". The New York Times
      32. ↑ IMG_2116 by chrys, Flickr.com, September 16, 2006.
      33. ↑ "Austrian Restaurant Guide" by Keith Waclena, February 18, 2000.
      34. ↑ "The Biodiesel Bible" by Keith Addison, Make your own biodiesel (website).
      35. ↑ Randal M. Hill, Steven P. Christiano, "Antifoaming agents", in Joseph C. Salamone, ed., Polymeric Materials Encyclopedia, CRC Press, 1996, 1:294

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