YOOX Net-a-Porter Group

YOOX NET-A-PORTER GROUP S.p.A
Public company
Traded as BIT: YNAP
Industry Fashion and leisure
Founded 2015
Founder Federico Marchetti
Headquarters Zola Predosa, Bologna, Italy
Key people
Federico Marchetti, CEO
Products Fashion products
Revenue 455.6 million Euros (2013) [1]
23.9 million Euros (2013) [1]
12.6 million Euros (2013) [1]
Total equity 119.7 million Euros (2013) [1]
Number of employees
713 (2013) [1]
Subsidiaries US, Japan, France, Spain, China, Hong Kong
Website www.ynap.com

YOOX NET-A-PORTER GROUP S.p.A is an Italian Internet mail order retailer of men's and women's multibrand clothing and accessories founded on 5 October 2015 after the merger between YOOX GROUP, the global Internet retailing partner for leading fashion and luxury brands, and THE NET-A-PORTER GROUP, the world’s premier online luxury fashion destination for content and commerce. Yoox was founded by Federico Marchetti, a former investment banker,[2] in Zola Predosa near Bologna in 2000 and has become an e-commerce company that serves "more than 100 countries worldwide".[3][4] Compagnie Financière Richemont agreed to merge Net-a-Porter with Yoox without the knowledge of Net-a-Porter founder Natalie Massenet for a valuation of about £950 million (about $1.4 billion), which was much lower than what Morgan Stanley bankers believed the business to be worth.[5]

YOOX history

YOOX’s concept is to buy up overstocked or unsold items from previous seasons in "a direct relationship"[6] from renowned fashion houses "including Dolce & Gabbana, Diesel, Gucci, Armani and Cavalli" [7] as well as "manufacturers and authorized dealers"[6] and sell them online at discounted outlet prices. This is to enable "luxury brands to off-load last year's merchandise without undermining their brands or cannibalizing sales at their existing stores".[8] Vintage designer clothing (Chanel, Dior, Pucci etc.)[9][10] is collected with the help of fashion editor Polly Allen Mellen [11][12] and sold at special occasions. Some fashion designers have created capsule collections exclusively for yoox.com, such as Hussein Chalayan (menswear) [13][14] or Alexandre Herchcovitch.

In addition to its eponymous web site, the company, through Yoox Services (formed in 2006),[15] operates the full-price online stores of fashion houses Marni (launched in 2006), Emporio Armani (2007), Diesel (2007), Stone Island (2008), C.P. Company (2008), Valentino SpA (2008), Miss Sixty (2008), Costume National (2008), Energie (2008), Emilio Pucci (2008), Dolce & Gabbana (2009), Moschino (2009), Jil Sander (2009), DSquared² (2009), Bally Shoe (2009), Roberto Cavalli (2009), Napapijri (2010), Coccinelle (2010), Giuseppe Zanotti Design (2010), Alberta Ferretti (2010), Zeis House (2010), Maison Martin Margiela (2010), Ermenegildo Zegna (2010), Y-3 (2011), Brunello Cucinelli and Dirk Bikkembergs (2011), all of which are referred to as "powered by Yoox".[3][16][17][18]

In 2008, Yoox launched its full-price online menswear retail store The Corner featuring established designer brands and a selection of niche fashion labels from Italy and elsewhere.[19][20][21] September 2009 saw the launch of womenswear at The Corner.[22]

The name, Yoox, is composed of the male (Y) and female (X) chromosome letters linked by OO, the infinity symbol ∞ or “the ‘zero’ from the binary code, the fundamental language of the digital age”.[23]

Corporate structure

Backed by venture capital firm Balderton Capital,[24] YOOX was founded as a privately held company [25] and achieved total revenues of $26m in 2004. By the end of 2005 it had reached $70m.[26] In 2008, it reported sales of $138m, "a 48% increase from 2007".[27] 75% of Yoox were owned by private equity firms Capital Kiwi (Italy), 360 Capital Partner (Net Partners, Italy) and Balderton Capital (then the European offshoot of Benchmark Capital - now independent), founder Federico Marchetti owned 9% and 16% were owned by senior managers. Yoox went public at the Milan Stock Exchange on December 3, 2009, generated 95m in revenues from the IPO and was valued at €217m that day.[28] Since the IPO, 51% of the stock is in the market, about 11.5% are owned by Balderton Capital, Kiwi owns 6,8%, Nestor 2000 6.3%, JP Morgan has a 5.4% stake, 4.7% belong to Marchetti and the rest to other shareholders. The company achieved a net profit of €4.1m with revenues of €152.2m in 2009.[29] The company is listed on the Borsa Italiana and is a constituent of the FTSE MIB index.

From its beginnings in 2000, the Yoox internet platform was powered by Hewlett-Packard.[7] In 2007, the web site had "three million visitors per month" and "more than one million items [were] delivered worldwide".[30] In 2008, over 1.7 million products were shipped to 53 countries by the group.[31]

YOOX’s CEO and founder is Federico Marchetti,[32] the head of marketing and sales is Massimiliano Benedetti.[33] Marchetti, who had worked for "Bain & Co. as a strategic consultant, Lehman Brothers as an expert in luxury goods and as a banker in mergers and acquisitions"[34] studied economics at Bocconi University in Milan [35] and holds an MBA from Columbia Business School.[36]

The company's US subsidiary, YOOX CORP, is a Delaware corporation based in TriBeCa, New York, New York, New Jersey.[37] For the U.S. market, YOOX partnered with Port Logistics Group (PLG) of Houston for supply chain management, such as merchandise returns, re-packaging and shipping within the United States. The partnership also allowed for "a direct relationship with U.S. designers and U.S. branches of European designers".[38]

In spring 2009, YOOX Group announced its plans for an initial public offering at the end of 2009.[18][27][39] This initial public offering (IPO) was realised at the end of November 2009, being priced at the top of the range of its valuation, and the deal being coordinated by Goldman Sachs and the Milan based investment bank Mediobanca [40]

Yoox.com was listed among Time magazine’s list of '50 Coolest Websites 2004' in the Lifestyle and Culture category.[41]

Logistics

All orders are dispatched at a warehouse in the Italian headquarters (Bologna).[42] “Each item is tagged with a radio frequency identification (RFID) tag, and is tracked to its exact location using a barcode detector”.[43] International warehouses, that serve as hubs, exist in New Jersey and Tokyo.[44]

Yoox maintains "20 studios to make pictures [of the merchandise] with 25 photographers" in Italy and the US.[45]

Net-a-Porter history

Net-a-Porter founder Natalie Massenet is an American-born former fashion journalist with Women's Wear Daily and Tatler.[46] She developed the concept of a magazine in website format where users could 'click' to buy while trying to source product online for a fashion shoot.[47] Having raised the £1.2m (approx $2m) start-up costs with the assistance of her then-husband, Massenet launched the company from their flat in Chelsea, London.[46]

In the early days, the operation was so low-key that the company's black delivery boxes were stacked up in the bathtub.[46] Initially, designers and investors were reluctant to support Net-a-Porter because it lacked a physical retail outlet. Massenet recalled the credibility gap in a 2013 interview in The Observer: "They'd listen and they'd nod and then afterwards they'd say, 'Just tell me one more thing: where is your store?'" However, in 2001, Roland Mouret was persuaded to sell his collection via the website.[46] By 2004, the same year in which it won best fashion shop at the British Fashion Awards, the company was profitable.[46]

In 2010, Massenet sold a majority stake in Net-a-Porter to Swiss luxury goods holding company Richemont for an estimated £50m.[46] She remains an investor and executive chairwoman.[47]

At the time it was bought by Richemont in 2010, Net-a-Porter was valued at $533 million.[48][49]

The business continues to grow and in 2013 it retailed products from more than 350 designers, attracted more than two million monthly visitors to the site and an average spend of £500 (around $850).[46] Brands it retails include Stella McCartney, Yves Saint Laurent and Diane von Furstenberg. Labels such as Alexander Wang, Yves Saint Laurent and RM by Roland Mouret have created capsule collections specifically for the site. Writing in The Observer in 2010, Eva Wiseman noted that being stocked by Net-a-Porter is becoming important to designers as it: "not only guarantees new customers but its [Net-a-Porter's] credibility gives a fashion brand value".[47]

As of September 2013, Net-a-Porter employed 2,600 people in the UK, US and Hong Kong, with further offices in Shanghai and fulfillment centres on the outskirts of three cities.[46][50]

In August 2014 CEO Mark Sebba stepped down. His employees produced a video that went viral as an "Epic Sendoff."[51][52]

Brand extensions

The Outnet, a site focusing on previous seasons' designs at discount prices was launched in 2009; in 2011, a menswear site Mr Porter was established and in 2013 a small beauty website was launched.[46]

In early 2014, Net-a-Porter launched a print magazine called Porter, with an associated app and digital version of the magazine.[53] Some 400,000 copies will be distributed six times a year in 60 countries.[54]

Playing off of its name, Net-a-Porter recently added a sportswear section to their website called Net-a-Sporter. The sportswear section of the website was launched in July 2014 and hosts athletic wear from a variety of high end luxury brands. Net-a-Sporter features 10 different sections for activities such as the gym and cross train, run, yoga and dance, tennis, equestrian, swim and surf, sailing, après sport, and golf.[55] When speaking of the addition of Net-a-Sporter to the e-tailer's online roster, the company's President Alison Loehnis said "We spotted a gap in the market for being a one-stop shop for workout wear where fashion meets function and where performance and style are equally valued."[56]

In August 2014, Massenet revealed that she originally wanted to call the website, "What's New, Pussycat?"[57] The current name is play on the French expression "pret-a-porter," or "ready to wear."[58]

Charity work

In August 2014, The Outnet launched a partnership with Victoria Beckham to sell items of her clothing to raise funds for the nonprofit organization mothers2mothers to educate women about HIV/AIDS in Africa. [59]

See also

References

  1. 1 2 3 4 5 "Annual Results 2013" (PDF). Retrieved 9 July 2014.
  2. The Web Opens for Business . . . nytimes.com. 10-07-2000
  3. 1 2 Yoox: The Group yoox.com. Retrieved: 07-23-2011
  4. Bargain hunting easy in cyber boutiques cnn.com. 01-04-2005
  5. businessoffashion.com The Secret Deal to Merge Net-a-Porter with Yoox Imran Amed, January 19, 2016
  6. 1 2 The International Business Awards: Yoox SpA Stevie Awards. Retrieved: 07-23-2011
  7. 1 2 HP Technology Helps Business Growth for YOOX zdnet.com. Retrieved: 07-23-2011
  8. Yoox: Discounted Luxury businessweek.com. 12-30-2002
  9. Yoox to sell vintage Chanel fashionunited.co.uk. 2009-11-06.
  10. Vintage Dior at Yoox JC Report. 2008-06-03.
  11. Times online: Fab vintage without the scrum
  12. Polly Allen Mellen - Legendary Editor & Stylist thefashionspot.com. Retrieved on 2009-04-12.
  13. Wallpaper: Hussein Chalayan for Yoox
  14. The Wall Street Journal: Hussein Chalayan Shows Off Nothingness
  15. Internet Retailer: YOOX adds an e-commerce customer, builds toward IPO
  16. High-fashion shoppers turn to the Web IHT. Retrieved on 2009-04-12.
  17. Armani press release 2008 armanipress.com. 2008-07-17.
  18. 1 2 Yoox Hires Goldman, Mediabanca to Underwrite Its IPO wsj.com. 2009-03-25.
  19. About us thecorner.com. Retrieved 2009-04-12.
  20. Yoox launches thecorner.com daily.chictoday.com. 2008-03-11.
  21. Just around the corner vogue.co.uk. Retrieved 2008-03-10.
  22. FashionWindows Retrieved 2009-09-02
  23. The Fundamental Language Of The Digital Age: YOOX.COM boramag.com. 06-02-2008.
  24. http://www.balderton.com/portfolio/yoox-group
  25. Women's Wear Daily: E-tailer YOOX Continues to Expand, Sees IPO on the Horizon
  26. Times online: Fashion's best kept secret
  27. 1 2 Where To Shop For Web Deals forbes.com. 2009-04-09.
  28. Reuters Intesa SP to list asset manager in IPO breakthrough (23 February 2010)
  29. yoox.com Yoox Group March 2010 RoadshowPresentation (17 March 2010)
  30. Quova.com: YOOX.Group Sets a Trend in Fraud Management with Quova
  31. Zimbio CEO Talk: Federico Marchetti, Founder and Chief Executive Officer, YOOX Group (9 September 2009)
  32. Interview with Federico Marchetti modabot.de. 2008-12-03.
  33. IHT: Footwear dot-coms stride ahead
  34. Internet Retailer: Federico Marchetti, Founder & CEO, Yoox.COM
  35. Internet Retailer: Federico Marchetti, Founder & CEO, Yoox.COM
  36. Goliath: Profile Federico Marchetti - Dressed to impress
  37. Yoox privacy policy yoox.com. Retrieved on 2009-04-12.
  38. PLG Develops a U.S. Supply Chain Solution for YOOX portlogisticsgroup.com. Retrieved: 07-23-2011
  39. Online retailer Yoox names IPO advisers-sources reuters.com. 2009-03-25.
  40. Relief over pricing of Yoox IPO Financial Times FT.com, 2009-12-01.
  41. Time.com: 50 cooles web sites 2004
  42. UPS Fashion case study: Yoox
  43. cnn.com: Bargain hunting easy in cyber boutiques
  44. IHT: Global brands revise local strategies
  45. The New York Times: $7,900 Valentino Gowns, a Click Away
  46. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Groskop, Viv. "Natalie Massenet: style leader who means business". The Observer. Retrieved 21 July 2014.
  47. 1 2 3 Wiseman, Eva (11 July 2010). "One click wonder: the rise of Net-a-Porter". The Observer. Retrieved 21 July 2014.
  48. Chevalier, Michel (2012). Luxury Brand Management. Singapore: John Wiley & Sons. ISBN 978-1-118-17176-9.
  49. Muller, Tom; Andrew Roberts (1 April 2010). "Richemont Buys Net-a-Porter, Valuing Web Fashion Retailer at $533. Million". Bloomberg. Retrieved 20 March 2013.
  50. Reardon, Kate. "V.F. portrait: Natalie Massenet". Vanity Fair (September 2012). Retrieved 21 July 2014.
  51. VIRAL VIDEO: Epic sendoff for beloved boss ABC
  52. ABC News
  53. Binkley, Christina. "Net-A-Porter launches magazine". Wall Street Journal. Retrieved 21 July 2014.
  54. "Timeline Natalie Massenet". Vogue. 2014. Retrieved 21 July 2014.
  55. http://fashionista.com/2014/07/net-a-sporter-launch
  56. http://www.vogue.com.au/beauty/wellbeing/what+every+woman+needs+in+her+gym+kit,31583
  57. http://032c.com/2014/net-a-porters-natalie-massenet-i-wanted-to-call-my-website-whats-new-pussycat/
  58. "Net-a-Porter's founder is quitting the e-retailer". Mail Online. Retrieved 2016-03-28.
  59. mothers2mothers, VICTORIA BECKHAM Presents an Exclusive Sale at THE OUTNET.COM for mothers2mothers

External links

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