Sagging (fashion)

A sagger in New York City.

Sagging is a manner of wearing trousers or jeans which sag so that the top of the trousers or jeans are significantly below the waist, sometimes revealing much of the underwear.

Sagging is predominantly a male fashion. Women's wearing of low-rise jeans to reveal their G-string underwear (the "whale tail") is not generally described as sagging.[1] A person wearing sagging trousers is sometimes called a "sagger",[2] and in some countries this practice is known as "low-riding".[3][4] It has become popular since the popularity of wearing brightly colored and patterned "boxer shorts".

Sagging first peaked in popularity during the 1990's, and has recently made a comeback in the 2010's, with celebrities like Justin Bieber, Liam Payne, Ross Lynch and more bringing back the fashion trend. Sagging in the 1990's usually focused on baggy trousers with plaid boxers, but in the 2010's sagging has become popular with skinny jeans and branded boxer-briefs.

In 2016, 35% of teen boys (13-18) in the UK say they sag their pants, mainly 13 and 16 year olds, whilst 65% of teen girls (13-18) in the UK say they find the trend 'attractive'.

Origin

The style was popularized by hip-hop artists in the 1990s.[5][6] It later became a symbol of freedom and cultural awareness among some youths[7] or a symbol of their rejection of the values of mainstream society.[8]

It is often claimed the style originated from the United States prison system where belts are sometimes prohibited[9] and there can be a lack of appropriately sized clothing,[5][10] but fashion historian Tanisha C. Ford of University of Massachusetts Amherst says this is not definitive and the origins of the style are unclear.[11]

Reaction

Two male Detroiters sagging their pants in 2007.

During the first decade of the 21st century, many North American local governments, school systems, transit agencies, and even airlines passed laws and regulations against the practice of wearing sagging pants, although no state or federal laws have been enacted banning the practice.[12] US presidential candidate Barack Obama, speaking just before the 2008 US Presidential Election appeared on MTV and said that laws banning the practice of wearing low-slung pants that expose one's underwear were "a waste of time ... Having said that, brothers should pull up their pants. You are walking by your mother, your grandmother, your underwear is showing. What's wrong with that? Come on. Some people might not want to see your underwear. I'm one of them."[13]

In June 2007 the Town Council of Delcambre, Louisiana, passed an indecent exposure ordinance, which prohibited intentionally wearing trousers in such a way as to show underwear.[14] In March 2008 the Hahira, Georgia City Council passed a controversial clothing ordinance, in the name of public safety, that bans citizens from wearing pants with top below the waist that reveal skin or undergarments. The council was split 2–2, but the tie was broken by the mayor.[15]

Benetta Standly, statewide organizer for the American Civil Liberties Union of Georgia stated, "In Atlanta, we see this as racial profiling ... It's going to target African-American male youths. There's a fear with people associating the way you dress with crimes being committed."[16] The interim police chief of Flint, Michigan ordered the arrest of saggers for disorderly conduct; however, as of August 2008, only warnings had been issued. The local chapter of the ACLU threatened legal action in response, saying that sagging did not violate the Flint disorderly conduct ordinance[17] and a Florida judge threw out a case brought under a similar rule, as being unconstitutional.[18]

Sagging clothing is a violation of some school dress codes,[3][19][20][21] and the prohibition has been supported in the court system.[22]

Two weeks after the "Pants on the Ground" video became popular thanks to American Idol (see below), a billboard campaign against the style of sagging pants was launched in the Dallas, Texas, area. The billboards feature Big Mama Joseph from the 1997 film Soul Food saying, "Pull 'Em Up!" and asks youngsters to "Keep it a secret!" The campaign is the brainchild of Dallas Mayor Pro Tem Dwaine R. Caraway, and uses advertising space donated by Clear Channel Outdoor.[23] Another billboard campaign against sagging pants was launched in Brooklyn by New York State Senator Eric Adams on March 28, 2010.[24] In May 2010 New York State Senate President Malcolm Smith used US$2,200 from his campaign fund to launch a similar campaign in Queens.[25]

At the 2010 Winter Olympics in Vancouver, Japanese snowboarder Kazuhiro Kokubo was barred from participating in the opening ceremonies due to dressing sloppily, including a loosened tie, shirt hanging out, and sagging pants.[26]

In the fall of 2010 at Westside Middle School in Memphis, Tennessee, the policy on handling sagging pants is for students to pull them up or get "Urkeled", a reference to the character Steve Urkel of the 1990s television show Family Matters. In this practice, teachers would pull their pants up and attach them there using zip ties. Students would also have their photo taken and posted on a board in the hallway, for all of their classmates to see. In an interview with WMC-TV, Principal Bobby White stated that the general idea is to fight pop culture with pop culture.[27] One teacher at the school claimed to have "Urkeled" up to 80 students per week, although after five weeks students got the message, and the number dropped to 18.[28]

On November 23, 2010, Albany, Georgia passed a city ordinance that banned the wearing of pants or skirts with top more than three inches below the top of the hips, and imposed a fine of $25 for the first offense, increasing to up to $250 for subsequent offenses. By September 2011, City Attorney Nathan Davis reported that 187 citations had been issued and fines of $3,916 collected.[29]

On December 8, 2010, the city of Opa-locka, Florida voted unanimously on a $250 fine or 10 hours of community service for individuals who did not pull their pants up.[30]

In Fort Worth, Texas, the local transportation authority implemented a policy in June 2011 that prohibited any passenger from boarding a bus while wearing sagging pants that exposes their underwear or buttocks. Signs were posted on buses saying, "Pull 'em up or find another ride", and one City Council member was looking for funds for a billboard campaign. The communications manager for the Fort Worth Transportation Authority said that on the first day the policy was enforced, 50 people were removed from buses for wearing improper pants. Some complained about the policy, but the overall response was positive.[7]

A state law went into effect in Florida for the 2011-2012 school year banning the practice of sagging while at school. Pupils found in violation receive a verbal warning for the first offense, followed by parental notification by the principal for the second offense, which will require the parent to bring a change of clothing to school. Students would then face in-school suspension for subsequent violations.[31]

University of New Mexico football player Deshon Marman was removed from a U.S. Airways flight bound for Albuquerque, New Mexico for wearing sagging pants.[32] A few months later Green Day singer Billie Joe Armstrong was removed from a Southwest Airlines flight from Oakland to Burbank, California for the same reason.[32]

In April 2012 Alabama County Circuit Judge John Bush sentenced 20-year-old LaMarcus Ramsey to three days in jail for appearing in court with sagging blue jeans that exposed his underwear, telling him, "You are in contempt of court because you showed your butt in court."[33]

On June 12, 2013, the Town Council of Wildwood, New Jersey, located on the Jersey Shore, voted unanimously to ban sagging pants from the town's boardwalk.[34]

In Ocala, FL, a law was passed against sagging jeans, violators face a $500 fine or up to six months in jail. Something similar was done in Wildwood, NJ.[35]

Music videos

American rapper Travis Scott sagging his pants while performing in 2015.

Sagging has been ridiculed in music videos, first, in the 1996 song "Back Pockets on the Floor" performed by The Green Brothers of Highland Park, Michigan.[36] Another song in 2007 by Dewayne Brown of Dallas, Texas entitled "Pull Your Pants Up" has a similar message.[37] On January 13, 2010, "General" Larry Platt performed "Pants on the Ground" during auditions for the ninth season of American Idol in Atlanta, Georgia.[38] In 2012 a 9-year-old rapper named Amor "Lilman" Arteaga wrote a song titled "Pull Ya Pants Up," and made a music video with an appearance by Brooklyn president Marty Markowitz.[39]

See also

References

  1. ↑ "In Pictures: Sagging Pants". BBC News. Retrieved January 29, 2010.
  2. ↑ Lung, Haha (2008). Mind Fist: The Asian Art of the Ninja Masters. Kensington Publishing Corp. p. 168. ISBN 0-8065-3062-6.
  3. 1 2 "Low-riding cool dudes told to hitch 'em high", Jun 30, 2000, Angela Gregory, NZ Herald
  4. ↑ "Undie-exposed for the beach",Jan 1, 2002, Patrick Gower, NZ Herald
  5. 1 2 Koppel, Niko (August 30, 2007). "Are Your Jeans Sagging? Go Directly to Jail.". New York Times. Retrieved January 29, 2010.
  6. ↑ "Teens' Sagging Jeans Not Just for 'Gangstas.'", Jennifer Skordas, Salt Lake Tribune. 15 October 1995 (p. B1).
  7. 1 2 Forsyth, Jim (June 2, 2011). "Saggy pants mean no ride on one Texas bus system.". Reuters. Retrieved June 3, 2011.
  8. ↑ Westbury, Anthony (October 21, 2010). "Saggy pants symbolize what's gone wrong in black community, kids say". TCPalm (Florida). Retrieved August 24, 2011.
  9. ↑ Christian, Margena A. (May 7, 2007). "The facts behind the saggin' pants craze". Jet.
  10. ↑ Mikkelson, Barbara (October 15, 2005). "Sag Harbored". Snopes. Retrieved January 29, 2010.
  11. ↑ Demby, Gene (11 September 2014). "Sagging Pants and the Long History of "Dangerous" Street Fashion". NPR. Retrieved 12 June 2015.
  12. ↑ Thomas, Robert Murray (2008). What schools ban and why. Westport, CT: Praeger Publishers. p. 85. ISBN 978-0-313-35298-0. External link in |publisher= (help)
  13. ↑ Haberman, Clyde (November 13, 2008). "Can Obama Help Kill Baggy Pants Look?". The New York Times. Retrieved January 27, 2010.
  14. ↑ Siddique, Haroon (June 14, 2007). "US town bans saggy pants". The Guardian (Guardian Media Group). Retrieved June 15, 2007.
  15. ↑ Fulton, Malynda (March 6, 2008). "Hahira passes clothing ordinance". Valdosta Daily Times (Associated Press). Retrieved March 6, 2008.
  16. ↑ "Crackdown! - Cities begin to belt wearers of saggy pants — but do laws violate rights?". Associated Press. September 17, 2007. Retrieved November 10, 2008.
  17. ↑ Bennett, Jessica; Mary Chapman (18 August 2008). "Fashion Police: Flint Cracks Down on Sagging". Newsweek. Retrieved November 10, 2008.
  18. ↑ "Judge rules saggy pants law unconstitutional/", 9/17/2008, NBC
  19. ↑ Board Approves Dress Code Changes, Fresno Unified School District, 1993, retrieved 2008-11-23
  20. ↑ Central Unified School District Dress Code, Central Unified School District, retrieved 2008-11-23
  21. ↑ Anderson Union High School District Dress Code Guidelines, Anderson Union High School district, 2008-08-20, retrieved 2008-11-23
  22. ↑ Brunsma, David L. (2004). The school uniform movement and what it tells us about American education: a symbolic crusade. Scarecrow Education. p. 60. ISBN 1-57886-125-X. External link in |publisher= (help)
  23. ↑ Heinz, Frank (January 26, 2010). "City Begins Battle Against Saggy Drawers". www.nbcdfw.com. Retrieved February 3, 2010. External link in |publisher= (help)
  24. ↑ Pearson, Jake (March 28, 2010). "Sen. Eric Adams fights 'crack' epidemic by launching ads urging youth to pull up saggy pants.". New York Daily News. Retrieved March 29, 2010.
  25. ↑ Schneiderman, R.M. (May 17, 2010). "Ad Campaign Asks Queens Bus Riders to Pull Up Their Pants". The Wall Street Journal. Metropolis (blog). Retrieved May 28, 2010.
  26. ↑ "Japan rider apologises for hip-hop dress attire". AFP. February 12, 2010. Retrieved February 14, 2010.
  27. ↑ Bruce, Becky (December 7, 2010). "Threat of 'Urkel' solves sagging pants problem". KSL.com. Retrieved December 8, 2010.
  28. ↑ "Students get 'Urkeled' for baggy pants". ABC2. December 7, 2010. Retrieved December 8, 2010. External link in |publisher= (help)
  29. ↑ "City Makes Thousands From Sagging Pants.". WYFF-TV. September 27, 2011. Retrieved September 27, 2011.
  30. ↑ "'Pull Your Pants Up,' City Officials Say". WPLG Local 10. December 8, 2010. Retrieved December 9, 2010. External link in |publisher= (help)
  31. ↑ Valero, Marc (August 2, 2011). "Droopy drawers' law is mixed bag.". The Tampa Tribune. Retrieved August 22, 2011.
  32. 1 2 "Green Day's Billie Joe Armstrong Kicked Off Plane for Saggy Pants.". US Magazine. September 3, 2011. Retrieved September 27, 2011.
  33. ↑ "Alabama Judge Slaps Saggy Pants-Wearing Man With Jail Sentence.". NewsOne. April 12, 2012. Retrieved July 19, 2012.
  34. ↑ Marcius, Chelsia Rose; Stephen Rex Brown; Daniel Beekman (June 12, 2013). "‘Crack-down’ in NJ town bans saggy pants, too-short skirts, other fashion flubs". Daily News (New York). Retrieved June 18, 2013.
  35. ↑ Demby, Gene. "Sagging Pants and the Long Histor of 'Dangerous' Street Fashion." npr.org. 11 Sept. 2014. Web. 11 Apr. 2015.
  36. ↑ "'Pants on the Ground' similar to 'Back Pockets on the Floor?'". USA Today. January 26, 2010. Retrieved January 26, 2010.
  37. ↑ Goodwyn, Wade (October 24, 2007). "In Dallas, a Hip-Hop Plea: Pull Your Pants Up". NPR. Retrieved January 29, 2010.
  38. ↑ Jonsson, Patrik (January 16, 2010). "'Pants on the ground' goes viral: Top five Larry Platt covers". Christian Science Monitor. Retrieved January 16, 2010.
  39. ↑ Weichselbaum, Simone (September 17, 2012). "Flatbush rapper Amor Arteaga, 9, is creative force behind music video titled: 'Pull Ya Pants Up'". Daily News (New York). Retrieved June 18, 2013.

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