Gopalpur Tussar Fabrics
| Gopalpur Tussar Fabrics | |
|---|---|
| Geographical indication | |
| Alternative names | ଗୋପାଳପୁର ଟସର ବସ୍ତ୍ର |
| Type | Handloom, Fabric |
| Area | Gopalpur, Jajpur district, Odisha |
| Country | India |
| Material | Handloom |
Gopalpur village of Jajpur District is famous for Tussar fabrics in India. This handicraft received the Geographical Indication tag by Government of India in 2009. Tussar textiles are often related with dhoti, joda, Shawl stole and scarves and Saarees.[1][2]
The Making Process
Preparing thread
The process starts with drafting and crafting, generally speaking females usually assist in reeling the threads. The weaver reels tussar thread, while holding 'natai' in their right hand, and picks the thread around the cocoons with their other hand. Twisting the filament of this, the weaver winds the yarns on the wooden 'natai' at a continuous speed. Drafting and crafting embellishments are done by hand, either with extra weft or extra wrap with a 'bandha' pattern in hand, this is what keeps the fabric expensive. In addition to doing it yourself, reeling machines are available at a cheap price.
Spinning
Traditionally, thread is wound around the chadaki to fill the bobins (nali) for weft with the help of a spinning wheel (charakha). Nowadays, gandhi charakha or wooden charakha, has been replaced by a metal part of cycle instead of wood.
Weaving
Fabric is weaved using a 'cut shuttle technique', in which they interlock with one another to form foda kumbha in weft direction. Shuttle on both the side of selvedhe interlocks with the main shuttle for the main body of the fabic, this is a time consuming process. By tie and die bandha technique, the foda kumbha pattern is copied for multiple production.
Designing
Threads are dyed in different shades of colours, such as maroon, red, plum and rust. Fabrics are designed in tussar and gheecha and enhanced with a supplement of weft and cut shuttle technique.
Tussar fabric industry
Fabrics are mainly marketed by the traders, PWCS, SHGs through the Boyanika (OSHWCS), Sambalpuri Bastralaya, SERIFED, Pvt. traders of Bhagalpur, Champa, Kolkata, Delhi, Bangalore,etc. Exhibitions and in local markets of the State. According to 2013-14 survey, there are 745 numbers of looms in this cluster. Around 5,000 people are dependent on this industry for their source of income[3]
References
- ↑ "tussar silk sarees". exportersindia.org. Retrieved 31 January 2016.
- ↑ sethi, Pankaja. "weaving threads of tradition- Traditional textile from gopalpur, Odisha". www.craftrevival.org. Retrieved 31 January 2016.
- ↑ "Gopalpur Handloom-1 Cuttack, Orissa". gocoop.com. Retrieved 31 January 2016.
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