List of climbers and mountaineers
List of climbers and mountaineers is a list of people notable for the activities of mountaineering, rock climbing (including bouldering) and ice climbing.
A
Christian Almer
Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi
B
Jacques Balmat
Adam Bielecki
Arlene Blum
David Breashears
Alexander Burgener
- John Bachar (1957–2009) USA. Noted for climbs in Yosemite National Park and free soloing.
- John Ball (1818–1889) Ireland. Naturalist and climber, Alps guidebooks author. First president of Alpine Club in 1857.
- Jacques Balmat (1762–1834) Duchy of Savoy. Chamonix-based guide. First ascent Mont Blanc (1786).
- George Band (1929–2011) UK. Everest Expedition (1953), first ascent Kanchenjunga (1955).
- Kinga Baranowska
- Anna Barańska (climber)
- Henry Barber (born 1953) USA. Leading US rock climber in the 1970s.
- Andrzej Bargiel
- Lilliane and Maurice Barrard (1948–1986 and 1941?–1986 respectively) France. Gasherbrum II (1982), Nanga Parbat (1984) (first female ascent). Both killed on K2.
- Charles Barrington (1834-1901) UK. First ascent Eiger (1858).
- Richard Bass (born 1929) USA. Businessman and amateur mountaineer, first to complete Seven Summits (1985).
- Robert Hicks Bates (1911–2007) USA. First ascent Mount Lucania (1937). On US attempts on K2 (1938 and 1953).
- Mark Beaufoy (1764–1827) UK. Fourth ascent Mont Blanc (1787).
- Fred Beckey (Friedrich Wolfgang Beckey) (born 1923) Germany/USA. Many first ascents in US and Canada.
- Bentley Beetham (1886–1963) UK. On 1924 Everest expedition; pioneer of Borrowdale (Lake District) rock climbing.
- George Irving Bell (1926–2000) USA. Physicist, biologist and mountaineer. First ascent Masherbrum (1960). Rescued on K2 (1953).
- Gertrude Bell (1868–1926) UK. Many ascents in Alps and further afield.
- Maciej Berbeka (1954-2013). First winter ascents of eight-thousanders: Manaslu, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak.
- Josune Bereziartu (born 1972) Basque (Spain). Rock climber; First female climber in grade 9a/5.14d.
- Didier Berthod (born ?) Switzerland. Featured in First Ascent.
- Adam Bielecki (born 1983) First winter ascents of eight-thousanders: Gasherbrum I and Broad Peak
- Isabella Bird (1831–1904) UK. Traveller, writer and natural historian.
- Barry Blanchard (born 1959) Canada. Mountain guide; first ascents in the Saint Elias range of Alaska.
- Smoke Blanchard (1915–1989) USA. Developed Buttermilk bouldering area.
- Karl Blodig (1859–1956) Austria. Mountaineer, optician and journalist; first to climb all 4,000 metres peaks in the Alps.
- Arlene Blum (born 1945) USA. First US female attempt on Everest. Led first all-woman ascent of Annapurna.
- Peter Boardman (1950–1982) UK. Everest 1975, Changabang West Wall 1976, Kanchenjunga 1979. Died on Everest with Joe Tasker.
- Emmanuel Boileau de Castelnau (1857–1923) France. First ascent La Meije with father and son Pierre Gaspard (1877).
- Jean-Marc Boivin (1951–1990) France. Exponent of extreme ascents and descents.
- Walter Bonatti (1930–2011) Italy. Mountaineer and writer. Solo new routes on Aiguille du Dru and Matterhorn.
- Sir Chris Bonington (born 1934) UK. First ascent Central Pillar of Freney (1961), Annapurna II (1960), Nuptse (1961), Central Tower of Paine (1962–3). Ascent of Everest (1985).
- Thomas George Bonney (1833–1923) UK. Geologist and mountaineer. President of Alpine Club.
- Alastair Borthwick (1913–2003) Scotland. Climber and author of Always a Little Further.
- Christine Boskoff (1967–2006) USA. 6 8,000m summits, including Everest twice. Died on Genyen Peak.
- Anatoli Boukreev (1958–1997) Russia. Climbed seven 8,000 m peaks without supplemental oxygen. Died on Annapurna 1997.
- Loulou Boulaz (1908–1991). Switzerland. Several first ascents and first female ascents in the Alps.
- Tom Bourdillon (1924–1956) UK. Cho Oyu (1952), British Everest expeditions (1951, 1952 and 1953), South Summit of Everest (1953). Died on the Jägihorn.
- Stipe Božić (born 1951) FPR Yugoslavia. Completed Seven Summits. Second European to climb Everest twice.
- Lydia Bradey (born 1961) New Zealand. First woman to climb Mt Everest without oxygen 1988.
- Samuel Brawand (1898–2001) Switzerland. Politician and mountain guide; first ascent of Mittellegigrat (northeast ridge of Eiger) (1921)
- David Breashears (born 1956) USA. Everest twice. Directed IMAX film Everest.
- Meta Brevoort (1825–1876) USA. Alpinist of Victorian period. Aunt of W. A. B. Coolidge.
- Russell Brice (born 1952) New Zealand. Record for fastest single solo ascent without oxygen of Cho Oyu and Ama Dablam.
- Jim Bridwell (born 1944) USA. Rock climber. First one-day ascent of Nose of El Capitan in 1975.
- David Brower (1912–2000) USA. Executive Director Sierra Club and Yosemite climber.
- Joe Brown (born 1930) UK. Rock climber. First ascent Aiguille de Blaitière west face, Kanchenjunga (1955), Mustagh Tower.
- Katie Brown (born 1981) USA. Won 1995 X Games and climbing Junior World Cup.
- Jean Buridan (c. 1300–1358) France. Climbed Mont Ventoux for the view, before Petrarch.
- Hermann Buhl (1924–1957) Austria. First ascent Nanga Parbat (1953) and Broad Peak (1957). Died on Chogolisa.
- Alexander Burgener (1845–1910) Switzerland. First ascent Matterhorn Zmuttgrat, Grands Charmoz, Aiguille du Grépon, Lenzspitze, Grand Dru.
C
Yvon Chouinard
Chhurim
Johann Coaz
Emilio Comici
Michel Croz
- Tommy Caldwell (born 1978) USA. Rock climber. Free climbed Nose of El Capitan.
- Una Cameron (1904–1987) UK. Ascents in Alps, Caucasus and Africa.
- Louis Ramond de Carbonnières (1755–1827) France. Scientist and Pyrenean pioneer.
- Kim Carrigan (born 1958) Australia. Leading technical rock climber of the 1980s.
- Cristina Castagna (1977–2009) Italy. First Italian female ascent Makalu
- Carlos Carsolio (born 1962) Mexico. 14 8,000m summits (1985–1996).
- Riccardo Cassin (1909–2009) Italy. First ascent Piz Badile north-east face (1937); Grandes Jorasses Walker Spur (1938); Mount McKinley Cassin Ridge (1961).
- Leszek Cichy First winter ascent Mont Everest
- Ludwik Chałubiński
- Armand Charlet (1900–1975) France. Many first ascents in Mont Blanc massif.
- Isabella Charlet-Straton (1838–1918) UK. First ascents in Alps. First winter ascent Mont Blanc (1876).
- Maxime Chaya (born 1961) Lebanon. Everest (2006), Seven Summits and Three Poles Challenge.
- Chhurim (29 years old in 2013). Nepal. First woman to reach Mount Everest summit twice in a week.
- Renata Chlumska (born 1973) Sweden. First Swedish female ascent Everest (1999).
- Yvon Chouinard (born 1938) USA. Pioneer of Yosemite climbing. Founder of Chouinard Equipment and Patagonia (clothing).
- John Clarke (1945–2003) Canada. Explorer and wilderness educator. Over 600 first ascents in Coast Range of British Columbia.
- Vern Clevenger (born 1955) USA. First ascent Cholatse (1982). Numerous first routes ascents in Sierra Nevada.
- Ian Clough (1939–1970) UK. First ascent Am Buachaille (1968). First UK ascent Eiger north face (1962). Died on Annapurna.
- Norman Clyde (1886–1972) USA. Pioneer of California's Sierra Nevada.[1]
- Johann Coaz (1822–1918) Switzerland. First ascent of Piz Bernina.
- J. Norman Collie (1859–1942) UK. First ascent Ben Nevis Tower Ridge. Nanga Parbat expedition (1895).
- Emilio Comici (1901-1940) Italy. First ascent Cima Grande di Lavaredo north face (1933) with Angelo and Giuseppe Dimai. Died in accident in Val Gardena.
- Achille Compagnoni (born 1914) Italy. First ascent K2 (1954) with Lino Lacedelli.
- Herb and Jan Conn (Herb: 1921–2012) USA. Early pioneers of climbing in areas like Carderock in Maryland, Seneca Rocks in West Virginia, and Black Hills of South Dakota.
- William Martin Conway (1856–1937) UK. Surveyor and explorer (Karakoram, Spitsbergen, Andes & Alps).
- Henri Cordier (1856-1877) France. First ascents Aiguille du Plat de la Selle, Les Droites (east summit) (1876). Died in accident on Le Plaret.
- Dr Patrick Cordier (1947–1996) France. First ascent French Direct on Norway's Troll Wall (1967). Solo ascent The Nose, Yosemite (1973). First ascents in Mont Blanc massif.
- Kenton Cool (born 1973) UK. Ten-time Everest summiter.
- W. A. B. Coolidge (1850–1926) USA. 1,700 expeditions in Alps, Alpine historian.
- Janne Corax (born 1967) Sweden. Adventurer and climber.
- Jean Couzy (born 1955) France. First ascent Makalu with Terray.
- Lucy Creamer, (born 1971). British Champion climber
- Peter Croft, (born 1958). Canadian climber and guide now living in Bishop, California. Noted for many hard first ascents in the Sierra Nevada and for the seminal book The Good, the Great, and the Awesome.
- Aleister Crowley (1875–1947) UK. Occultist, writer, and rock climber. Led early expeditions on K2 and Kanchenjunga.
- Michel Croz (1830–1865) France. Numerous first ascents. Died on descent after first ascent of Matterhorn.
- John Cunningham (1927–1980) Scotland. Pioneered new techniques of ice climbing.
- Bronisław Czech
- Anna Czerwińska (born 1949) Poland. Oldest female ascent Everest (at the time, age 50), first Polish female Seven Summits.
- Andrzej Czok
D
Clinton Thomas Dent
Kurt Diemberger
E
F
Douglas Freshfield
Tom Frost
- Freda du Faur (1882–1935) Australia. First female ascent Mount Cook.
- Ron Fawcett (born 1955) UK. One of the first professional rock climbers.
- Sue Fear (1963–2006) Australia. Five 8,000ers, killed in crevasse fall on Manaslu.
- Edmund February (born ?) South Africa. Opened over 500 climbing routes throughout Africa.
- Rudolf Fehrmann (1886–1947) Germany. Pioneer rock climber in Elbsandsteingebirge.
- Darby Field (1610–1649) Ireland? First European to climb Mount Washington (New Hampshire) (1642).
- George Ingle Finch (1888–1970) Australia. Reached 8,300 m on 1922 Everest expedition; Dent d'Hérens north face.
- Scott Fischer (1955–1996) USA. Lhotse 1990, K2 1992, Everest 1994; died in 1996 Mount Everest disaster.
- Hans Florine (born 1964) USA. Speed climber. Ascent The Nose El Capitan (2012) in 2:36:45.
- James David Forbes (1809–1868) UK. First British ascent Jungfrau.
- Charlie Fowler (1954–2006) UK. Free solo rock climber and high-altitude mountaineer.
- Mick Fowler (born 1956) UK. Explorer and mountaineer. Winner of Piolet D'Or (2003).[4]
- Douglas Freshfield (1845–1934) UK. Alps, Scotland, Himalayas, Pyrenees.
- Tom Frost (born ?) USA. Rock climber, first ascents of big walls in Yosemite Valley.
- Wang Fuzhou (1935–2015) China. First ascent Everest north face, first ascent Shishapangma.
G
Conrad Gessner
Stefan Glowacz
Paul Güssfeldt
- Patrick Gabarrou (born 1951) France. First ascents in Mont Blanc massif.
- Will Gadd (born 1967) Canada. Various hard mixed routes including the first M12.
- Ryszard Gajewski
- Lene Gammelgaard (born ?) Denmark. Author of Climbing High. First female Scandinavian ascent of Everest.
- João Garcia (born 1967) Portugal. First Portuguese to climb Everest and 10th to climb all 8,000m summits (1993–2010).
- Rolando Garibotti (born 1971) Argentina/USA. Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre traverse.
- Pierre Gaspard (1834–1915) France. First ascent La Meije with his son and Emmanuel Boileau de Castelnau.
- Lakpa Gelu (born 1967) Nepal. 12 Everest ascents.
- Lester Germer (1896–1971) USA. Physicist, World War I fighter pilot and rock climber.
- Conrad Gessner (1516–1565) Switzerland. Naturalist and early mountaineer in the Alps.
- John Gill (born 1937) USA. Father of modern bouldering. Introduced chalk and modern dynamics in the 1950s.
- Stefan Glowacz (born 1965) Germany. Professional rock climber.
- Alessandro Gogna (born 29 July 1946) is a mountaineer, adventurer and Mountain guide from Italy
- Dan Goodwin (born 1955) USA. Rock/building climber, climbed World Trade Center, Sears Tower, John Hancock Center and CN Tower.
- Dave Graham (born 1981) USA. Rock climber and boulderer.
- Tormod Granheim (born 1974) Norway. Climber and extreme skier. First ski descent Everest north face (2006).
- Chloé Graftiaux (1987–2010) Belgium. Rock and sport climber and mountaineer.
- William Spotswood Green (1847–1919) New Zealand. Selkirks.
- Paul Grohmann (1838–1908) Austria. Numerous first ascents in the 19th century.
- Michael Groom (born 1959) Australia. Ascents of Lhotse, Kangchenjunga, K2 and Everest without bottled oxygen.
- Bear Grylls (born 1974) in 1998, at age 23, was the youngest Briton to summit Mount Everest
- Wolfgang Güllich (1960–1992) Germany. Rock climber and boulderer. First 5.14d - Action Directe (1991).
- Jesse Guthrie - One of the pioneers of sport climbing in the USA.
- Paul Güssfeldt (1840–1920) Germany. First ascent Peuterey ridge and Piz Scerscen. First European attempt on Aconcagua (1883).
- Veikka Gustafsson (born 1968) Finland. All 8,000m summits (1993–2009).
H
Heinrich Harrer
Edmund Hillary
- Artur Hajzer
- Hassan Sadpara (born 3 April 1963) Gilgit-Baltistan. Summited 5 eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen including Everest and K2.
- Peter Habeler (born 1942) Austria. First ascent without supplementary oxygen Everest (1978) with Reinhold Messner.
- Douglas Robert Hadow (1846–1865) UK. Died on first ascent Matterhorn (1865).
- Dave Hahn (born ?) USA. 11 Everest ascents, 26 Vinson Massif ascents, 19 Denali ascents.
- Lincoln Hall (1956–2012) Australia. Rescued at 8,700m on descent from Everest (2006).
- Rob Hall (1960–1996) New Zealand. Seven Summits in seven months. Died in 1996 Mount Everest disaster.
- Peter Harding (1924–2007) UK. Prominent climber of the 1940s.
- Warren J. Harding (1924–2002) First ascent El Capitan.
- Alison Hargreaves (1963–1995) UK. First female unassisted Everest (1995), died on descent from K2 summit.
- Chanda Gayen (1979-2014) India.first female from west Bengal to climb Everest. Killed on Kanchenjunga western side .
- John Harlin (1934–1966) USA. Direct route pioneer. Killed on Eiger north face.
- Heinrich Harrer (1912–2006) Austria. First ascent Eiger north face (1938) and Carstensz Pyramid (1962). Author of Seven Years in Tibet.
- Ginette Harrison (1958–1999) UK. 7 Summits. First female ascent Kangchenjunga (1998). Killed on Dhaulagiri.
- Dougal Haston (1940–1977) Scotland,. First ascent Annapurna south face (1970). Killed in avalanche near Leysin.
- Elizabeth Hawkins-Whitshed (1860–1934) UK. Pioneer of mountaineering, mountain photographer, author.
- Andreas Heckmair (1906–2005) Germany. First ascent Eiger north face (1938).
- Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich
- Gary Hemming (1934–1969) USA. First ascent south face Aiguille du Fou.
- Siegfried Herford (1891–1914) UK. First ascent Scafell Central Buttress (1914).
- Derek Hersey (1956–1993) UK. Many free solo routes in the US.
- Maurice Herzog (1919-2012) France. Led Annapurna expedition (1950) (first 8,000m peak climbed).
- Tom Higgins (born 1944) USA. First and first free ascents in USA; also in France outside Chamonix.[5]
- Lynn Hill (born 1961) USA. First free ascent The Nose on El Capitan, Yosemite (1993).
- Sandy Hill (born 1955) USA. Seven Summits.
- Edmund Hillary (1919–2008) New Zealand. First ascent Everest (1953) with Tenzing Norgay.
- Alan Hinkes OBE (born 1954) UK. First Briton to climb all 8,000m summits (claim is disputed).[6]
- Andreas Hinterstoisser (1914–1936) Germany. Attempted Eiger north face in 1936 with Toni Kurz. Both died during the retreat.
- Yuji Hirayama (born 1969) Japan. World Champion 1998, 2000.
- Marty Hoey (1951–1982) USA. Died on Everest.
- Charles F. Hoffmann (1838–1913) USA. Surveyor and mountaineer. Several first ascents in Sierra Nevada.
- Jim Holloway (born 1954) USA. Perhaps first to achieve V11+ levels.
- Alex Honnold (born 1985) USA. Free solo of Half Dome northwest face (2008) and Moonlight Buttress in Zion National Park (2008).
- Tom Hornbein (born 1930) USA. First ascent Everest west ridge (1963).
- Steve House (born 1970) USA. Solo ascent K7 (2004). First ascent Nanga Parbat Rupal face (2005).
- Charles Houston (born 1913) USA. First ascent Mount Foraker (1934), attempts on K2 in (1938), (1953).
- Alexander and Thomas Huber (born 1968 and 1966 respectively) Germany. Free ascents Yosemite, speed record El Capitan.
- Charles Hudson (1828–1865) UK. First ascent Monte Rosa (1855), Matterhorn (1865). Died on descent of Matterhorn.
- Tomaž Humar (1969–2009) Slovenia. Piolet d'Or (1996) for new route Ama Dablam. Solo Dhaulagiri south wall.
- Alexander von Humboldt (1769–1859) Germany. Chimborazo.
- John Hunt (1910–1998) UK. Leader, 1953 Everest expedition.
I
Andrew Irvine
J
Margaret Jackson
- John Jackson (1921–2005) UK. First ascent of Jackson's Route.
- Margaret Jackson (1843–1906) UK. Pioneer female mountaineer in the Alps.
- Nicolas Jaeger (1946–1980) France. First French ascent of Mount Everest.
- Zbigniew Jaworowski
- Narendra Dhar Jayal a.k.a. 'Nandu' Jayal (died 1958) India. First Director of Himalayan Institute of Mountaineering.
- Ganesh Jena (born 1972) India. First male from Odisha, India to climb Mount Everest.
- Jimmy Jewell (1953–1987) UK. Prolific rock-climbing soloist.
- Raghav Joneja (born 1997) India. Youngest Indian to climb Mount Everest.
- Kevin Jorgeson (born 1984) USA. First free climb of the Dawn Wall of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, USA.
K
- Conrad Kain (1883–1934) Austria/Canada. Over 50 first ascents in the Canadian Rockies, amongst which Mount Robson.
- Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (born 1970) Austria. First woman to climb all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen.
- Colonel Narendra Kumar (born 1933) India. Siachen Glacier and Himalayan veteran
- Harish Kapadia (born 1945) India. Himalayan veteran.
- Bob Kamps (1931–2005) USA. Pioneer of golden age of Yosemite climbing and 5.10 & 5.11 routes in America.
- Mieczysław Karłowicz
- Fritz Kasparek (1910–1954) Austria. First ascent of Eiger north face.
- Ron Kauk (born 1957) USA. Rock climber. Many first ascents in Yosemite. Stunt work for Hollywood climbing movies.
- Robert Kayen (born 1959) USA. Rock climber, UCLA professor, scientist. First solo ascent of West Buttress of El Capitan.
- Dora Keen (1871–1963) USA. 8 ascents of first-class peaks in the Alps. Member of Royal Geographical Society, 1914.
- Pat Kelly (died 1922) UK. Rock climber and founder of Pinnacle Club.
- E. S. Kennedy (1817–1898) UK. First ascent Monte Disgrazia, Mont Blanc du Tacul.
- Clarence King (1842–1901) USA. Geologist and climber, first director of USGS, first ascent Mount Tyndall.
- Andy Kirkpatrick (born 1971) UK. Rock and ice climber, motivational speaker.
- Colin Kirkus (1910–1942) UK. Rock climber and alpinist.
- Zygmunt Klemensiewicz
- Christian Klucker (1853–1928) Switzerland. Guide, prolific first ascentionist in Bernina Range and Bregaglia.
- M.S. Kohli (born 1931) India. Leader of the Indian Everest expedition (1965).
- Layton Kor (born 1938) USA. Rock climber and mountaineer. Author of Beyond the Vertical.
- Dai Koyamada (born 1976) Japan. Sport climber and boulderer.
- Jon Krakauer (born 1954) USA. Author and mountaineer. Summited Everest (1996). Wrote Eiger Dreams, Into The Wild and Into Thin Air.
- Hans Kraus (1905–1995) Austria. Pioneering rock climber and one of fathers of sports medicine and physical medicine and rehabilitation.
- Göran Kropp (1966–2002) Sweden. Rode bike from Sweden, soloed Everest without oxygen and rode home (1996).
- Julius Kugy (1858–1944) Austria-Slovenia. Considered the father of modern mountaineering in the Julian Alps.
- Jerzy Kukuczka (1948–1989) Poland. Second man to climb all 8,000m peaks. The only man in the world who ascent in the winter on four eight-thousanders.
- Władysław Kulczyński
- Janusz Kurczab
- Wojciech Kurtyka (born 1947) Poland. Pioneer of alpine style in high mountains.
- Toni Kurz (1913–1936) Germany. Attempted Eiger north face in 1936. Died during the retreat.
- Jaan Künnap (born 1948) Estonia. Mountaineer and photographer.
L
- Louis Lachenal (1921–1955); France; first ascent of Annapurna 1950, with Maurice Herzog; died skiing in Chamonix
- Jean-Christophe Lafaille (1965–2006); France; 11 eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen; died on Makalu
- Raymond Lambert (1914–1997); Switzerland; reached 8611m, highest altitude at that time, with 1952 Swiss Everest expedition
- Samantha Larson (born 1988); USA; youngest person to complete Seven Summits, at 18 in 2007
- Constantin Lăcătușu (born 1961); Romanian
- Philip Ling (fl. 2006); Australia; notable for one of the highest rescues, of two injured Sherpas on Mt. Pumori (7167m), Nepal
- Pete Livesey (1943–1998); UK; influential rock climber in the 1970s
- John Long (born 1953); USA; rock climber and writer; author of How to Rock Climb series
- Erhard Loretan (1959–2011; Switzerland; 14 8,000m-plus summits (1982–1995)
- Alex Lowe (1958–1999); USA; climbed Great Trango Tower, Rakekniven in Antarctica & Sail Peak on Baffin Island; Died on Shishapangma
- George Lowe (1924-2013); New Zealand; last surviving member of 1953 British Mount Everest Expedition
- Jeff Lowe (born 1950); USA; made over 1000 first ascents in the US and Canadian Rockies, Alps and Himalayas
- Fritz Luchsinger (1921–1983); Switzerland; first ascent of Lhotse, in 1956
M
Reinhold Messner
Thomas Middlemore
Albert F. Mummery
- Tim Macartney-Snape (born 1956) Australia. Everest (1984). First to climb Everest from sea level (1990).
- Dave MacLeod (born 1978) Scottish. Established world's first E11.
- M. Magendran (born 1963) Malaysia. Everest (1997). First Malaysian/Tamil to reach summit.
- Janusz Majer
- Maki Yūkō (1894–1989) Japan. First ascents of Mittellegigrat (Eiger northeast ridge), Mount Alberta; first winter ascent of Mount Yari; led expedition that achieved first ascent of Manaslu
- Antoni Malczewski
- George Mallory (1886–1924) UK. Initial 1921 British Reconnaissance Expedition and the initial ascent efforts of the 1922 and 1924 British Mount Everest Expeditions. Died on Everest at 8,150+ metres.
- Marie Marvingt (1875–1963) France. First woman to climb most major peaks in French and Swiss Alps (1903–7).
- Sergio Martini (born 1949) Italy. Seventh ascent of all eight-thousanders (1983–2000).
- William Mathews (1828–1901) UK. Founder of Alpine Club. First ascent Monte Viso, Grande Casse.
- Chantal Mauduit (1964–1998) France. Six 8,000m summits without supplementary oxygen. Died on Dhaulagiri.
- John Oakley Maund (died 1902) UK. First ascents in Mont Blanc massif.
- Eylem Elif Maviş (born 1973) Turkey. First Turkish female ascent of Everest (2006).
- Pierre Mazeaud (born 1929) France. Walter Bonatti's climbing partner. First French ascent of Everest (1978).
- Daniel Mazur (born 1960) USA. Numerous ascents in the Himalayas and America.
- Steve McClure (born 1970) UK. First Briton to climb 9a twice.
- Duncan McDuffie (1877–1951) USA. Summits in the Sierra Nevada (U.S.).
- Richard "Dick" McGowan (1933–2007) USA. First US successful ascent of Everest, International Himalayan Expedition (1955).
- Ammon McNeely (born 1970) USA. Noteworthy first one-day ascents and speed records on El Capitan, Yosemite and Zion big walls.
- Alain Mesili (born 1949) France. Disputed ascent on Fitz Roy (1970) with Ricardo Arzela.[7] Pioneered routes in Bolivia.
- Reinhold Messner (born 1944) Italy. First to climb all eight-thousanders (1970–1986) and without supplementary oxygen. First ascent without supplementary oxygen of Everest with Peter Habeler (1978). First solo Everest (1980).
- John Middendorf (born 1959) USA. Big-wall rock climber. First ascent East Wall Great Trango Tower (1992).
- Thomas Middlemore (1842–1923) UK. First ascents in Mont Blanc and Bernina massifs, and Bernese Alps.
- Jerry Moffatt (born 1963) UK. Sport climber and boulderer.
- Gwen Moffat (born 1924) UK. Author of Space Below My Feet (1961).
- Silvio Mondinelli (born 1968) Italy. 13th person to climb all eight-thousanders (6th without supplementary oxygen).
- Ben Moon (born 1966) UK. Sport climber and boulderer, established world's first F8C+.
- A. W. Moore (1841–1887) UK. First ascent Fiescherhorn, Barre des Écrins, Piz Roseg, Ober Gabelhorn
- Fritz Moravec (1922–1997) Austria. First ascent Gasherbrum II (1956).
- Piotr Morawski (1976–2009) Poland. Many 8000m summits. Died on Dhaulagiri/Manasu expedition.
- Nea Morin (1905–1986) UK. Rock climber and mountain climber.
- Simone Moro (born 1967) Italy.
- Patrick Morrow (born 1952) Canada. First to complete both the Bass and Messner Seven Summits lists (1986).
- Tomáš Mrázek (born 1982) Czechoslovakia. Rock climber, World Champion 2003, 2005, winner of World Cup 2004.
- John Muir (1838–1914) Scotland Scottish born US Conservationist and mountaineer. Summits in California and Alaska.
- Norrie Muir (born 1948) Scotland. Prolific winter first ascentionist in Scotland.
- Albert F. Mummery (1855–1895) UK. Alpine and Himalayan pioneer, killed on Nanga Parbat.
- Don Munday (1890–1950) Canada. Mountaineer and explorer, husband of Phyllis Munday, explored region around Mount Waddington.
- Phyllis Munday (1894–1990) Canada. Mountaineer and explorer. Explored region around Mount Waddington.
- Tashi and Nungshi Malik (1991) India. World's first female twins to scale together Everest (19 May 2013), first siblings and twins to scale 'seven summits', first twins and siblings and youngest women to complete Explorers Grand Slam and Three Pole Challenge, and first South Asians to do so <http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/mumbai/Haryanvi-twins-hit-record-by-conquering-Seven-Summits/articleshow/45555686.cms>[8][9][10]
N
Tenzing Norgay
O
Juanito Oiarzabal
Adam Ondra
P
Michel-Gabriel Paccard
Paul Preuss
R
- Aron Ralston (born 1975) USA. Gained fame after amputating his right arm to free himself after a canyoneering incident.
- Lisa Rands (born 1975) USA. Rock climber and boulderer.
- Michael Reardon (1974–2007) USA. Freesoloist and film producer.
- Dave Rearick (born 1934) USA. Rock climber, first ascent of Diamond on Longs Peak (1960).
- Gaston Rébuffat (1921–1985) France. 1950 Annapurna expedition, first to climb all six great north faces of the Alps, Alpine guide and author.
- Ernst Reiss (born 1920) Swiss. First ascent of Lhotse (1956).
- Dorothy Pilley Richards (1894–1986) UK. Wrote Climbing Days (1935).
- Katharine Richardson (1854–1927) UK. Mountaineer in the Alps in the 1880s.
- Leni Riefenstahl (1902–2003) Germany. Filmmaker, actress and mountaineer.
- Rick Ridgeway (born 1950) USA. Author, filmmaker, photographer, member of first American team to summit K2.[14]
- Ang Rita (born 1948) Nepalese Sherpa. Climbed Everest ten times without supplemental oxygen.
- Alain Robert (born 1962) France. Climber and builderer.
- David Roberts (born ?) USA. Author, first ascents of Wickersham Wall (Mount McKinley) and other Alaskan peaks.
- Royal Robbins (born 1935) USA. Rock climber, pioneer of modern Yosemite climbing in the 1950s.
- Paul Robinson (born 1987) USA. Rock climber and boulderer.
- André Roch (1906–2002), Switzerland. Everest 1952 attempt, many first ascents in Alps and Asia
- Beth Rodden (born 1980) USA. Rock climber.
- Jordan Romero (born 1996) USA. Became the youngest person to climb Everest on May 22, 2010. He was 13 years 10 months 10 days.[15]
- Steve Roper (born ?) Guidebook writer, Editor of Ascent.
- Fred Rouhling (born 1970) France. Rock climber, notable for 1995 proposal of grade 9b (5.15b) for his unrepeated climb Akira.
- Alan Rouse (1951–1986) UK. Soloed many of hardest routes of day. Died on descent from K2 (1986).
- Galen Rowell (1940–2002) USA. Photographer and mountaineer, first one-day ascents of Denali and Kilimanjaro, first ascent Great Trango Tower.
- Henry Russell (1834–1909) France/Ireland. Prolific first ascentionist in Pyrenees.
- Wanda Rutkiewicz (1943–1992) Poland. First women on K2. 8,000m-peak veteran, died attempting Kanchenjunga.
S
John Salathé
Horace-Bénédict de Saussure
Ueli Steck
Gottlieb Samuel Studer
- Nazir Sabir (born ?) Pakistan. First Pakistani to climb Mount Everest.
- Hassan Sadpara (born ?) Pakistan. Starting as a High Altitude porter, he climbed 5xPakistani 8000ers and Everest.
- Mostafa Salameh (born 1970) Jordan. First Jordanian to summit Everest, and Seven Summits.
- John Salathé (1900–1993) Switzerland/USA. Pioneering Yosemite National Park, inventor of modern piton.
- Horace-Bénédict de Saussure (1740–1799) France. Third ascent Mont Blanc (1787), funded first ascent.
- Marcus Schmuck (1925–2005) Austria. First ascent Broad Peak. First ascent Skil Brum.
- Peter Schoening (1927–2004) USA. First ascent Gasherbrum I and Vinson Massif. Saved 5 climbers on K2 (1953).[16]
- Doug Scott (born 1941) UK. Seven Summits. First ascent Everest south-west face. Baintha Brakk (descent with broken ankles), Kangchenjunga, Nuptse.
- Vittorio Sella (1859–1943) Italy. Mountaineer and pioneer photographer.
- Chris Sharma (born 1981) USA. Award-winning rock climber. Second climber to redpoint 5.15c/9b+ (La Dura Dura). Featured in several rock climbing movies.
- John Sherman (born 1959) USA. Inventor of "V" grading system.
- Apa Sherpa (born early 1960s) Nepal. Record for most ascents of Everest (20 as of 2010).
- Pasang Lhamu Sherpa (1961–1993) Nepal. First Nepali woman to climb Everest, died during descent.
- Pemba Dorjie Sherpa (born ?) Nepal. Fastest ascent of Everest (2003).
- Pemba Doma Sherpa (1970–2007) Nepal. First Nepali female mountaineer to climb Everest north face. Died on Lhotse.
- Eric Shipton (1907–1977) UK. First ascent Kamet. Pioneered route across the Khumbu Glacier.
- William Shockley (1910–1989) USA. Nobel Prize-winning physicist, proponent of eugenics. First ascent Shockleys Ceiling in the Gunks (1953).
- Joe Simpson (born 1960) UK. Survived a fall on Siula Grande. Wrote Touching the Void.
- Arunima Sinha India. First Indian amputee to climb Mount Everest.
- Todd Skinner (1958–2006) USA. Rock climber. First free ascent Salathe Wall. Died on Leaning Tower.
- Cecilie Skog (born 1974) Norway. First female to climb Seven Summits and both Poles. Everest and K2.
- Laurie Skreslet (born 1949) Canada. First Canadian to summit Everest (1982).
- William Cecil Slingsby (1849–1929) UK. First ascent Store Skagastølstind (1876). Pioneer of Norwegian mountaineering.
- Marian Smoluchowski
- Frank Smythe (1900–1949) UK. First ascent Kamet (1931) with Shipton, R Holdsworth and Lewa Sherpa. Reached 8565m on Everest in 1933 without supplementary oxygen.[17]
- Dermot Somers Ireland. Climber, author and broadcaster.[18]
- Carlos Soria Fontán (born 1939) Spain. The only mountaineer to have ascended nine mountains of more than 8,000 meters after turning 60 years old.
- William Grant Stairs (1863–1892) Canada. First non-African to ever climb in the Ruwenzoris.
- Allen Steck (born 1926) USA. mountaineer and rock climber.
- Ueli Steck (born 1976) Switzerland. Soloed Eiger north face in 2:22:50 hours (2015).
- Leslie Stephen (1832–1904) UK. Author and alpinist. First ascent Schreckhorn, Monte Disgrazia, Zinalrothorn.
- Fritz Steuri (1879–1950). Switzerland. Skier and mountain guide; first ascent of Mittellegigrat (northeast ridge of Eiger) (1921)
- Edward Lisle Strutt (1874–1948) UK. Deputy leader on 1922 Everest expedition. Outspoken Alpine Journal editor, 1927–37.
- Gottlieb Samuel Studer (1804–1890) Switzerland. First ascent Wildhorn (1843). Founding member of Swiss Alpine Club.
- Jan Alfred Szczepański
- Mieczysław Szczuka
T
Bill Tilman
Francis Fox Tuckett
U
Karl Unterkircher
V
W
Edward Whymper
- Horace Walker (1838–1908) UK. First ascent Mount Elbrus, Grandes Jorasses, Barre des Ecrins, Obergabelhorn.
- Lucy Walker (1836–1916) UK. First female ascent Matterhorn (1871).
- Bradford Washburn (1910–2007) USA. Third ascent Denali, pioneered west buttress route.
- Barbara Washburn (born ?) USA. First ascent Mount Bertha, first female ascent Denali (1947).
- Don Whillans (1933–1985) UK. First ascent Annapurna south face (1970).
- Rick White (1946–2004) Australia. Rock climber, developed Frog Buttress (1968).
- Jim Whittaker (born 1929) USA. First US ascent Everest (1963).
- Lou Whittaker (born 1929) USA. Rainier guide.
- Edward Whymper (1840–1911) UK. First ascent Matterhorn (1865), first ascent Chimborazo (1880).
- Jim Wickwire (born 1940) USA. K2 (1978) (bivouacked near summit).
- Krzysztof Wielicki (born 1950) Poland. First winter ascent Everest; 5th person to climb all eight-thousanders.
- Karl Wien (1906–1937) Germany. Leader of unsuccessful Nanga Parbat expedition (1937).
- Fritz Wiessner (1900–1988) USA. Born Dresden, emigrated to US; pioneer of free climbing; K2 expedition (1939).
- Walter Wilcox (1869–1949) Nationality? Canadian Rockies explorer.
- Richard Williams, rock climber. Pioneered many first ascents in the Shawangunks and author of rock climbing books.
- George Willig (born 1949) USA. Climbed South Tower of World Trade Center.
- Fritz Wintersteller (born 1927) Austria. First ascent Broad Peak (1957) and Skil Brum (1957).
- Ian Woodall (born 1956) UK. Climbed Everest several times.
- Daniel Woods (born 1989) American climber who specialises in bouldering. Ascended the world's hardest boulder problem, Flash (V15) in 2011.
- Fanny Bullock Workman (1859–1925) USA. Geographer, cartographer and mountaineer, notably in the Himalayas.
- Ryan Waters (born 1973) USA. First American to complete the Adventurers Grand Slam with unsupported north and south poles.
Y
Z
References
- ↑ "Lonely Grave in the Sierra - Norman Clyde". Archived from the original on September 14, 2009.
- ↑ Günther Dyhrenfurth
- ↑ "Ershlers First Couple to Climb the Seven Summits". International Mountain Guides. Retrieved 2014-10-19.
- ↑ "Mick Fowler". Mountain Culture. The Banff Centre. 2000. Retrieved 2014-10-19.
- ↑ Tom Higgins
- ↑ "Alan Hinkes Kangchenjunga - 13 or 14?". Mounteverest.net. 13 May 2005. Retrieved 2014-10-19.
- ↑ "Fitz Roy - West face (Supercanaleta)". pataclimb.com. Retrieved 2014-10-19.
- ↑ https://www.sit.ac.nz/Home/About-Us/News/Articles/ID/170/SIT-students-continue-to-make-history
- ↑ http://www.hindustantimes.com/india-news/indian-twins-complete-adventures-grand-slam-conquering-7-summits-2-poles/article1-1340333.aspx
- ↑ http://ibnlive.in.com/videos/542890/nungshi-tashi-return-after-completing-their-adventurers-grand-slam.html
- ↑ "Boston's Vanessa O'Brien Completes 'Explorer's Grand Slam' in Record Time". Boston.com. 18 April 2013. Retrieved 2014-10-19.
- ↑ "Woman does Explorer's Grand Slam in record time". grindtv.com. May 2013.
- ↑ Jolly, Joanna; Mulvey, Stephen (27 August 2010). "New doubts over Korean Oh Eun-Sun's climbing record". BBC News. Retrieved 2010-08-29.
- ↑ American Alpine Journal, 1979, pp. 1–18
- ↑ "Jordan Romero, 13, 'becomes youngest to scale Everest'". BBC. 22 May 2010. Retrieved 22 May 2010.
- ↑ Douglas, Ed (4 October 2004). "Pete Schoening - Obituary". The Guardian. Retrieved 2014-10-19.
- ↑ Frank Smythe Archived April 7, 2005, at the Wayback Machine.
- ↑ "High Ideals". Irish Times. 1998-05-05. Retrieved 2012-04-29.
- ↑ Ichiro Yoshizawa - Obituary Archived April 26, 2005, at the Wayback Machine.
External links