Mediterranean cuisine

Mediterranean cuisine with the staples of bread, wine, food in olive oil, and fruit: Three Men at a Table, by Diego Velázquez, 1618

Mediterranean cuisine is the food from the lands around the Mediterranean Sea. This geographical area broadly follows the distribution of the olive tree, which provides one of the most distinctive features of the region's cooking, olive oil. Although this region spans a wide variety of cultures with distinct cuisines, the historical connections of the region, as well as the impact of the Mediterranean Sea on the region's climate and economy, mean that there are common elements in these cuisines.

The cooking of the area is not to be confused with Mediterranean diet, made popular because of the apparent health benefits of a diet rich in olive oil, grains, fruits, vegetables and a certain amount of seafood, but low in meat and dairy products. Mediterranean cuisine encompasses the ways that these and other ingredients, including meat, are dealt with in the kitchen, whether they are healthgiving or not.

Geography

Potential distribution of the olive tree over the Mediterranean Basin (Oteros, 2014)[1]

By city and country

Elizabeth David's introduction to her 1950 A Book of Mediterranean Food defines her scope as "The cooking of the Mediterranean shores". She sketches out the geographical limits as "From Gibraltar to the Bosphorus, down the Rhone Valley, through the great seaports of Marseilles, Barcelona, and Genoa, across to Tunis and Alexandria, embracing all the Mediterranean islands, Corsica, Sicily, Sardinia, Crete, the Cyclades, Cyprus (where the Byzantine influence begins to be felt), to the mainland of Greece and the much disputed territories of Syria, the Lebanon, Constantinople, and Smyrna".[2]

By a key culinary plant

"Those blessed lands of sun and sea and olive trees": a landscape in Rhodes, in the Eastern Mediterranean

David however introduces an alternative way of defining a region—with a culinary plant, quoting as precedent the French chef Marcel Boulestin's definition of France in culinary terms: "It is not really an exaggeration to say that peace and happiness begin, geographically, where garlic is used in cooking". David then applies the same idea to the Mediterranean, naming a different plant, the olive: "those blessed lands of sun and sea and olive trees".[2]

The olive's natural distribution is limited by frost and by availability of water. It is therefore constrained to a relatively narrow zone around the Mediterranean Sea. In Libya and Egypt it is practically confined to the coast, Across the Maghreb lands of Tunisia, Algeria, and Morocco, and in Spain, it is distributed more widely. In France, Italy, the Balkans, Turkey and the Levant it is again confined relatively tightly to the coast, here and there reaching inland. In the Balearic Islands, Sardinia, Sicily, Crete and Cyprus the olive is widespread. The region thus defined excludes most of France, most of the north of Italy, and the inland regions of the Balkans, corresponding with David's limits, except that she does not mention the western Maghreb lands, nor the Balearic Islands, neither of which she had visited.[2][1]

The Tunisian historian Mohamed Yassine Essid similarly defines the region by the olive's presence, along (anciently) with bread wheat and the grape as the "basic products of Mediterranean folk cuisine". Essid writes in his 2012 "History of Mediterranean food" that "Mediterranean cuisine is defined by the presence of fundamental elements which are said to play a more important role than others, reflecting a community of beliefs and practices which transcend religions, languages and even societies. The olive tree, the emblematic tree on more than one account, traces the bounds of a frontier of landscapes and lives on either side of which the Mediterranean begins or ends. Above Montelimar, nicknamed "Gates of Provence", is the limit of the olive."[3]

Key ingredients

Essid, as already mentioned, identifies the "trinity" of basic ingredients of traditional Mediterranean cuisine as the olive, wheat, and the grape, yielding oil, bread, and wine respectively.[4]

Olive

Olive (Olea europaea)
Main article: Olive

The olive appears to come from the region of Persia and Mesopotamia, at least 6,000 years ago.[5] It spread from there to nearby areas, and has been cultivated since the early Bronze age (up to 3,150 BC) in southern Turkey, the Levant, and Crete.[6][7] The ten countries with the largest harvests are all near the Mediterranean (Portugal being the tenth largest): together, they produce 95% of the world's olives.[8]

The olive yields bitter fruits, made edible by curing and fermentation, and olive oil. Some 90% of the fruit production goes into olive oil.[9] The Mediterranean region accounts for the world's highest consumption of olive oil: in 2014, the highest-consuming country, Greece, used 17kg per head; Italy, 12kg, Spain 3kg; the United States for comparison used only 1 kg per head.[10]

Wheat

Wheat (Triticum)
Main article: Wheat

Wheat was domesticated in the Fertile Crescent, in and near the Levant some 10,000 years ago. Its ancestors include wild emmer wheat; this was hybridised, harvested and sown to create domestic strains with larger grains, in ears that shatter less readily than wild forms.[11] It had been spread across the Mediterranean region as far as Spain by 5000 BC.[12]

Wheat is a staple food in the Mediterranean region. Wheat bread was already critically important in the empire of Ancient Rome, which included the entire region; at that time, North Africa was the "breadbasket" of the empire.[13][14] Other staple wheat-based Mediterranean foods include pasta and semolina (wheat middlings) products such as couscous and burgul.[15] In turn, these are made into dishes such as the Greek dessert galaktoboureko (milk börek), consisting of filo pastry parcels around a custard made with semolina.[16] A widespread wheat dish from Turkey and the Levant to Iran and India is halva, a dessert of sweetened semolina with butter, milk, and pine kernels.[17]

Grape

Grape (Vitis vinifera)
Main article: Grape

The grape was domesticated between 7,000 and 4,000 BC between the Black Sea and Persia; archaeological evidence shows that wine was being made there by 6,000 BC, reaching Greece and Crete in the fifth millenium BC and Spain by the last millenium BC. Winemaking started in Italy in the ninth century BC, and in France around 600 BC.[18]

Grapes are grown for making wine, for drying as raisins, or for eating as table grapes. Wine grapes are often rich in tannins, while raisins and table grape varieties are chosen for their flavour.[19] Grape production remains important in the Mediterranean area, with a large part of the world's harvest. Italy produced 8 million tonnes (mt) in 2013; Spain 7.5 mt; France 5.5 mt; Turkey 4.0 mt; Egypt 1.4 mt; Greece 0.9 mt; Algeria 0.6 mt.[20] Wine production is similarly large, with France 4.3 mt; Italy 4.1 mt; Spain 3.2 mt, but with much lower figures from the Muslim countries.[20]

History

Concept

Ratatouille, a dish of aubergines and peppers, as interpreted on the Aeolian Islands

The concept of a Mediterranean cuisine is very recent, probably dating from the publication of David's A Book of Mediterranean Food in 1950.[21] David herself did not use the term, speaking instead of Mediterranean "food", "cookery", or "cooking".[22] The usefulness of the concept is disputed. Carol Helstosky's 2009 Food Culture in the Mediterranean is among the authors who use "Mediterranean cuisine" interchangeably with "Mediterranean food", writing in her preface[23]

Mediterranean food is incredibly popular: pasta, pizza, gyros[lower-alpha 1], kebab, and falafel can be found just about everywhere. Food experts and cookbook authors adore Mediterranean cuisine...[23]

Essid acknowledges that "geographical differences and the vicissitudes of history" have affected the food of different Mediterranean lands, but nonetheless asserts that

Rules for the preparation and consumption of food are common to the lands that border the Mediterranean. They offer both stability, continuity and reproduction of a specific pattern of eating which resists conquest, invasion, colonisation, social change, industrialisation and urbanisation. Consequently, wherever you go, in southern Europe or the lands bordering the southern Mediterranean, you will find a cuisine and gastronomic ritual which is always familiar.[24]
One of several Mediterranean cuisines: Spanish kitchen still life (Bodegón de cocina) by Cristoforo Munari, c. 1710

On the other hand, Sami Zubaida argues in his 1994 book Culinary Cultures of the Middle East that:

The idea of the "standard Mediterranean" ... is a modern construction of food writers and publicists in Europe and North America earnestly preaching what is now thought to be a healthy diet to their audiences by invoking a stereotype of the healthy other on the shores of the Mediterranean. Their colleagues in Mediterranean countries are only too willing to perpetuate this myth. The fact of the matter is that the Mediterranean contains varied cultures.[25]

More equivocally, the cookery author Clifford A. Wright wrote in 1999 that "There really is no such thing as 'Mediterranean cuisine'. At the same time, we seem to know what we mean when we use the expression...."[26] Wright argued that David's book itself was largely about specifically French Mediterranean food, pointing out that "only 4 percent of her recipes come from North Africa or the Levant".[27]

Since David's time, a variety of books on Mediterranean cuisine have been written, including B. Santich's 1995 The Original Mediterranean Cuisine: Medieval Recipes for Today (which is specifically about Catalan and Italian recipes); Helstosky's 2009 book, already mentioned; S. Rowe's 2011 Purple Citrus and Sweet Perfume: Cuisine of the Eastern Mediterranean; Sana Nimer Abu Shihab's 2012 Mediterranean Cuisine; Mari-Pierre Moine's 2014 Mediterranean Cookbook; J. R. Stevens's 2015 Mediterranean Cuisine. There are many more cookbooks covering specific cuisines in the Mediterranean area, such as H. F. Ullman's on the cooking of Tunisia (2006),[28] Spain[29] and Italy,[30] each one subtitled "Mediterranean Cuisine".

Origins

The haricot beans used in a Southern French Cassoulet were brought to Europe from the Americas

The ingredients of Mediterranean cuisine are to an extent different from those of the cuisine of Northern Europe, with olive oil instead of butter, wine instead of beer. The list of available ingredients has changed over the centuries. One major change was the introduction of many foods by the Arabs to Portugal, Spain and Sicily in the Middle Ages.[31] Those foods included aubergines, spinach, sugar cane, rice, apricots and citrus fruits, creating the distinctive culinary tradition of Al-Andalus.[32]

Another major change was the arrival of foods from the Americas in Early Modern times, notably the incorporation of the potato into Northern European cuisine,[lower-alpha 2] and the eager adoption of the tomato into Mediterranean cuisine. The tomato, so central now to that cuisine, was first described in print by Pietro Andrea Mattioli in 1544. Similarly, many of the species of Phaseolus beans now used around the Mediterranean, including P. vulgaris (the French or haricot bean), were brought back from the Americas by Spanish and Portuguese explorers.[31][34][35][36]

Cooking

Syrian apricot paste "dissolved in water to make a cooling drink"[2]

David's introduction to her A Book of Mediterranean Food characterises the cooking of the Mediterranean countries as "conditioned naturally by variations in climate and soil and the relative industry or indolence of the inhabitants."[2]

Certain foods are pan-Mediterranean, such as Bottarga, the salted, cured roe of fish such as the grey mullet.[37]

David identifies "the ever recurring elements" in the food of this extensive region as olive oil, saffron, garlic, "pungent" local wines, as well as the "aromatic perfume" of herbs, especially rosemary, wild marjoram, and basil, and the bright colours of fresh foods in the markets, "pimentos, aubergines, tomatoes, olives, melons, figs" and "shiny fish, silver, vermilion, or tiger-striped". She includes cheeses of "sheep's or goat's milk", "figs from Smyrna on long strings" and "sheets of apricot paste which is dissolved in water to make a cooling drink."[2]

Locations of major Mediterranean cuisines

With common ingredients including the olive, wheat, and grape; a shared climate; and a long period for cultural exchange, it might be expected that a single, pan-Mediterranean cuisine would have developed. Certain items, such as olive oil,[4] bread,[4] wine,[4] roast lamb or mutton[38] (for example, Maghreb méchoui, Greek kleftiko and souvlaki, Turkish shish kebab), bottarga,[37][39] and stews of meat with vegetables and tomato (such as Spanish andrajos, French estouffade à la Provençale,[40] Italian ciambotta, Turkish buğu kebabı), are indeed found all around the Mediterranean. Despite this, however, the lands bordering the Mediterranean sea have distinct regional cuisines, from the Maghreb, Levant and Ottoman to the Italian, French, and Spanish. Each of those, in turn, has national and provincial variations.

Maghreb

Main article: Maghrebi cuisine
Tagines slow-cooking on a Moroccan street

Maghreb cuisine includes the cuisines of Morocco, Tunisia, Algeria, and Libya. One of the most characteristic dishes of the region is couscous, a steamed small-grained wheat semolina, served with a stew. The dish is ancient, mentioned by the Medieval traveller Ibn Battuta, and found for example also in Italian cuisine, at Trapani, Livorno and Genoa.[41][42]

One stew that may be served with couscous is the Moroccan tagine, a hearty, somewhat dry dish of meat and vegetables, cooked slowly in a pot (called a tagine) with a tall conical lid. Dishes from the Maghreb region of North Africa are often coloured and flavoured with the hot spice mixtures harissa and ras el hanout (containing such spices as cumin, coriander, saffron, cinnamon, cloves, chillies, and paprika). Other characteristic flavourings of the region are preserved lemons and dried apricots and raisins.[38]

Levantine

Main article: Levantine cuisine
Levantine cuisine: tabbouleh

Levantine cuisine is the cooking of the coastal Middle East. Among the most distinctive foods of this cuisine are traditional small meze dishes such as tabbouleh, hummus, and baba ghanoush.[43][44] Tabbouleh is a dish of bulgur cracked wheat with tomatoes, parsley, mint and onion, dressed with olive oil and lemon juice.[45][46] Baba ghanoush, sometimes called "poor man's caviar", is a puree of aubergine with olive oil, often mixed with chopped onion, tomato, cumin, garlic, lemon juice, and parsley. The dish is popular across the whole of the Eastern Mediterranean and North Africa.[47]

Ful medames, originally from Egypt and still a national dish there, consists of fava beans with oil and cumin; it is popular throughout the Levant.[48] The dish may be ancient: dried beans of Neolithic age have been found near Nazareth.[49]

Ottoman

Ottoman cuisine: börek, small flaky pastries
Main article: Ottoman cuisine

Ottoman cuisine has given rise to the cuisines of modern Turkey, parts of the Balkans, Cyprus, and Greece. A distinctive element is the family of small flaky pastries called börek. These are popular and widespread across the Eastern Mediterranean region, and may date as far back as ancient Roman times. Börek are made of thin sheets of filo pastry, filled with mixtures such as meat, caramelised onion and sweet peppers.[50]

Another widespread[lower-alpha 3] and popular dish is moussaka, a baked dish of aubergine and potato, often with a layer minced lamb in a spiced tomato sauce, and often with a layer of egg custard or béchamel sauce on top. It is among the best known "Greek" dishes, but the name comes from Turkish (musakka), which in turn is from Arabic (musaqqa‘ah, مسقعة). Its distribution might suggest antiquity, but it seems to have been devised by the influential chef Nikolaos Tselementes only in the 1920s.[52]

Italian

Main article: Italian cuisine
Italian cuisine: Spaghetti alle vongole, a dish of pasta with clams

Mediterranean Italian cuisine includes the cooking styles of the Italian riviera (Liguria), Tuscany, Rome, Naples, Sicily, Abruzzo, and Veneto. It is a diverse cuisine, but among its best-known and most characteristic foods are risotto, pizza, and pasta dishes such as spaghetti in Neapolitan and Sicilian styles.[53][54][55]

Risotto is a dish made using Italian short-grain rice, which is both highly absorbent and resistant to turning into a pudding when cooked with stock and flavoured with onions and garlic, cooked in butter.[53] Anna Gosetti della Salda's book of Italian regional cookery lists 37 risotto recipes, 18 of them from the Veneto. Variations among Veneto risottos include additions of fish and white wine; chicken; eel; mushrooms and grated Parmesan cheese; quails; small pieces of beef; courgettes (zucchini); clams; Ragù; beans; mussels; prawns; cuttlefish; and asparagus.[56]

Pizza with tomatoes and mozzarella cheese

Pizza, or as David notes "pissaladina or pissaladière" in Provence (the cuisines of Mediterranean France and Italy having something in common), is a piece of bread dough rolled out thin, with a topping which varies from place to place, but is generally much simpler than those in the English-speaking world.[57][58] In Naples this is tomato, anchovies and buffalo mozzarella. In San Remo it is onions cooked in olive oil, with salted sardines. The Provençal variety uses onions, black olives, and anchovies.[54]

Spaghetti likewise varies according to where it is made. In Naples, it is traditionally served without the familiar bolognese sauce; David states that the pasta may be eaten "simply with olive oil and garlic", without even any grated cheese, or with a sauce of "very red and ripe peeled tomatoes", cooked briefly and flavoured with garlic and either basil or parsley. The Sicilian style, in contrast, is a sauce made of pieces of bacon, onions fried in fat, garlic, stoned olives, and anchovies, served with olive oil and grated Parmesan cheese.[55]

French

Main article: Provencal cuisine
French cuisine: a Marseille bouillabaisse, with the fish served separately after the soup

Mediterranean French cuisine includes the cooking styles of Provence, Occitania, and the island of Corsica. Distinctive dishes that make use of local ingredients include bouillabaisse and salade niçoise.

Bouillabaisse is a substantial dish from the French port of Marseille, capital of Provence. It is a stew for at least eight people, because it should contain many kinds of fish such as crayfish, gurnard, weever, John Dory, monkfish, conger eel, whiting, sea bass, and crab. These are cooked with Mediterranean vegetables and herbs, namely onions, garlic, tomatoes, thyme, fennel, parsley, bay, and orange peel.[59][lower-alpha 4]

Salade niçoise is a colourful salad of tomatoes, tuna, hard-boiled eggs, Niçoise olives, and anchovies, dressed with a vinaigrette.[60]

Spanish

Main article: Spanish cuisine
Spanish cuisine: paella with red peppers and mussels

Mediterranean Spanish cuisine includes the cooking styles of Andalusia, Catalonia, Valencia, and the Balearic islands.

Paella is a characteristic Spanish dish, originally from Valencia and now popular across a much wider area, made in many versions. It may contain a mixture of chicken, pork, and shellfish, fried in oil in a large shallow pan, with vegetable flavourings, and long-grain rice cooked to absorb the water and coloured with saffron. Other local ingredients may include artichoke hearts, peas, sweet peppers, sausages and so on.[61]

Mediterranean diet and cuisine

Main article: Mediterranean diet

The Mediterranean diet, popularized in the 1970s, is sometimes conflated with Mediterranean cuisine. Thus, the American Diabetes Association writes about "Mediterranean-Style Eating", mentioning "the traditional Mediterranean lifestyle ... of ... eating healthfully together among family and friends", and asserting that "Mediterranean cuisine is plant-based", citing the ingredients "whole grains, fruits, vegetables, herbs and spices, beans, nuts, seeds, and olive oil", and stating that most foods "in a Mediterranean diet come from plants".[62]

Massimo Alberini and Giorgio Mistretta write in their 1984 Guida all'Italia gastronomica that "Around 1975, under the impulse of one of those new nutritional directives by which good cooking is too often influenced, the Americans discovered the so-called Mediterranean diet. The name even pleased Italian government officials, who made one modification: changing from diet—a word which has always seemed punitive and therefore unpleasant—to Mediterranean cuisine."[63]

"Mediterranean diet" as popularly understood may have little to do with either Mediterranean cuisine or indeed the traditional Mediterranean diet based on the trinity of wheat, olive, and grape. Thus, Judy Lance's book Low Carb Eating: How a Wheat Free Menu, or Mediterranean Diet Can Help with Weight Loss advocates a diet called Mediterranean, but lacking the wheat staple entirely.[64]

A changing cuisine

Fast food, Turkish style: with increasing wealth, people around the Mediterranean are changing their diet towards more meat (here, fried chicken) and less vegetables.

Since Elizabeth David wrote about Mediterranean food in 1950, and indeed since dietary researchers showed in the 1950s that people around the Mediterranean had less coronary heart disease than the peoples of northern Europe, the traditional Mediterranean ways of life and of eating have changed. Increased wealth and busy lives have led people to eat more meat and less vegetables: their diet is becoming more northern European, with more convenience foods and with less of a preventative effect on cardiovascular disease.[65]

Notes

  1. ↑ The Greek version of döner, meat roasted on a vertical spit.
  2. ↑ Barrels of potatoes were exported from the Canary Islands to Antwerp in 1567.[33]
  3. ↑ Elizabeth David stated that "mousaká" was "well known all over the Balkans, Turkey, and the Middle East."[51]
  4. ↑ David's recipe is from M. Reboul's La Cuisinière Provençale.[59]

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  4. 1 2 3 4 Essid, 2012, p. 29
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  25. ↑ Sami Zubaida, "National, Communal and Global Dimensions in Middle Eastern Food Cultures" p. 43 in Sami Zubaida and Richard Tapper, [A Taste of Thyme:] Culinary Cultures of the Middle East, London and New York, 1994 and 2000, ISBN 1-86064-603-4. The book has been published with and without the "A Taste of Thyme" prefix.
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  27. ↑ Clifford Wright, A Mediterranean Feast, Introduction, note 2: "it really is not about Mediterranean food but rather about French food"
  28. ↑ Ullman, H. F. (2006). Tunisia (Mediterranean Cuisine). Konemann. ISBN 978-3-833-12344-3.
  29. ↑ Ullman, H. F. (2006). Spain (Mediterranean Cuisine). Konemann. ISBN 978-3-833-12035-0.
  30. ↑ Ullman, H. F. (2006). Italy (Mediterranean Cuisine). Konemann. ISBN 978-3-833-12031-2.
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  52. ↑ Kremezi, Aglaia (13 July 2010). "'Classic' Greek Cuisine: Not So Classic". The Atlantic.
  53. 1 2 David, 1950, pp. 101–103
  54. 1 2 David, 1950, pp. 45–46
  55. 1 2 David, 1950, pp. 109–111
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  57. ↑ Altomari, Dawn (2005). The Everything Italian Cookbook: 300 Authentic Recipes to Help You Cook Up a Feast!. Everything Books. p. 11. ISBN 1-59337-420-8.
  58. ↑ Smith, Andrew F. (2007). The Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink. Oxford University Press. p. 463. ISBN 978-0-19-988576-3.
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  60. ↑ "Recette de Salade niçoise traditionnelle". L'Atelier des Chefs. Retrieved 30 April 2016.
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